UKC

Climbs 35
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 62m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Crag features

Former quarry, up to 50ft high; good for beginners but toproping sensible as holds not always trustworthy.The easiest descent and walk up can be accessed by going to the North end of the quarry, just past Nimo Wall and on the LH side of this scrambling up a small path and walking round the top of the quarry, but whilst doing this be very careful.

Traversing round the quarry proves a pretty interesting problem, but should only be attempted in dry weather. The main (West-facing) wall does not dry very quickly, but the other wall on the left (South Slabs) faces the sun and therefore dries pretty quickly, but is not advisable to go after rain.

Update: 21/08/10: The quarry is owned by the local authority. This can be clarified by visiting the ranger in Royden park. He will show you the map of area and the boundaries of national trust area. The quarry being very close to national trust border, that may be where the confusion lies.

Update: Feb 2022: Stakes previously in place to assist with rigging top ropes have been removed by the council in the process of adding a new fence along the top of the cliff. 

Gorse is steadily encroaching on some areas of the cliff. The Council has requested that any gardening of gorse is done only in the winter months (mid Nov to mid March) to minimise impact on nest sites and that all cuttings are removed off site. Current ranger: Rosemary Illidge, Royden Park Rangers Office Tel No: 0151 678 6151.

See also the new Facebook "Friends Of Irby Quarry" page created Feb '22.

March 5th '22 2 strops and 4 sets of 2 glue in bolts installed by volunteers to cover about 8 routes. Use of this equipment is at the individual's own risk. Thanks to those who turned up on the day.

Approach notes

Take the A540 NW from Heswall for 3mi, then R onto the B5140 towards Frankby. After 0.7mi at a junction by a pub turn R onto a smaller road to Irby Hill. The crag is on the R after 400m; take the footpath through a large wooden gate and up a lane to the foot of the quarry, upon entry the main wall is dead ahead and there is a smaller wall to the left hand side.

Best/biggest car parking is the large layby next to the Irby Cricket Club ground on Mill Hill Road. From here, a footpath cuts West through woodland for 200m to Sandy Lane. Follow Sandy Lane down hill to the last house and then take right-hand footpath North to enter the quarry.
Be sure to read the BMC notes.

A crag rescue is underway guided by a Friends of Irby Quarry facebook group, assisted by the BMC. A start has been made on putting in new belay stations above the popular areas and discussions are underway with the owners, Wirral Council to facilitate gorse clearance. There is now a full low girdle traverse (some tricky f6a bits) though some brambles remain to be cleared. Two bouldering walls have been developed - Concave Wall Route 27 (f4 to f5) and the wall on the extreme R looking in just before the diagonal ramp with 5 boreholes (f3-f5). If you want to get involved in the rescue join the FB group!
Pekkie - 06/Mar/22
Was very overground at the top limiting some of the route choices. Had some glass bottles thrown from the top of the crag as i was climbing which was a bit off putting!
AlistairBerridge - 31/May/20
Seemed OK when we visited in Jun 18. Some small bits of broken glass, but not as bad as Hobson Moor in this respect ! Appears to be a lot of gorse, but most of the routes on the LH section which we were climbing on had OK top outs. Some protection is available on the routes, maybe not 100% reliable, but certainly worth leading. Grades soft !
sn - 26/Jun/18
Visited the quarry yesterday. Glass around on the floor, a wheely bin and rubbish. Also a wheelbarrow and other things hanging at the top of the tallest wall. Gorse quite overgrown when my partner tried to get up to the top via the lefthand path and he didn't manage to get up. Have not climbed here and was just checking it out.
kate8 - 29/Mar/15
Was here a few weeks back and actually had a guy fly tippin over the route i was about to set up for! also i noticed some one had took a chopper to some of the trees over the far side, just wanted to say good effort who ever did that! now we just some insights to whats out of bound on top of the crag, before i start riggin in peoples gardens..... also as for leading routes i wouldnt bother, i take the approach of SOLO! or pads...... sod ropes with this place unless ya workin or with complete novisis... One last thing, i got sniff of the new guide for here and if you want the truth, take every single grade on it with a pinch of salt!!!!!
phil_freeman - 26/Jan/12
Live only 2 minutes from this place and with the light nights coming was going to give it a go. Anyone up for it give me a shout.
lincoln.3 - 23/Mar/11
if you get glass in your fingers dont worry its NOT your fault , in spite of other's comments ! it's the scum of the earth's fault for putting it there in the first place! all scum bag's can be shot on site according to quarry rule's !
descender8 - 02/Jan/11
just been there for the whole day, brushed up a lot whilst havent a break from climbing, there is know NO glass on the main rock face and along to the back wall. left a brush there incase anyone needs it. brush is at the main wall in the spikey bush. get down here guys if your local would be good to see a few climbing faces around instead of just dog walkers. only come if your local, wouldnt travell far to come here really, its good to get a bit of training in your spare time. stewy
stewyclimb - 02/Mar/10
crazy tree felling work (10 + trees) has been undertaken on right side of wall , no attempt to clear up the by product , look's very messy and no real need , the wall has been dry enough to climb for years and was dry at the time of the rather exccesive and eye sore tree felling , time would of been better spent tidying usual array of litter/glass e.c.t ,also while i'm at it there's defo no need to use 5kg's of chalk every time you touch rock ! who ever you are you'll save yourself 's
descender8 - 02/Oct/09
Many urban venues suffer from 'misuse' so if use common sense... if you get glass in your fingers it's your own fault- look before you climb and take a brush. ... there ARE, in FACT, 'actual routes' here in spite of other's comments, it's just that the guide hasn't yet been published. They are all mostly easy, up to 5a/5b and there are some harder. Some routes are probably leadable although the better option might be Top roping, which can be done from fences, trees, blocks and fixed gear (!?)
Dnmn - 10/May/09
good spot to get glass in your finger's or even better glass in your foot, you have been warned ! highly un recomended dont travel more than a mile no actual routes here , all un protectble scrambles
descender8 - 10/May/09
what r the routes called?
nolo - 18/Aug/06
where does everyone set up anchors here?
nolo - 14/Aug/06
hey guys, is there any chance that anyone could send me a copy of a topo for this crag? as a friend and me are trying to amass/remake a topo guide and need to know what is already available. cheers mike
mike - 09/Jul/06
I,ve a topo of the East wall (on left) with 8 routes - another 3 added since (cleared gorse at top for these). Grades from VD to VS 4b -all solo or top rope because of lack of protection. There are about 6 routes on the South wall from S to VS 5a and a low level traverse crosses most of the rock. There were other routes further right but the jungle has claimed them.
peteraccre - 01/Jul/06
i will try and get down at the weekend and i will let you know a bit more... sorry! nolo
nolo - 01/Jun/06
there is a couple of routes to the right ide as you walk in, sorry cant give more detail!!! michael
mike - 28/May/06
Does anyone know about any routes at this site because i have searched everywhere and cant find a single place that will give me route and grades Thank
Heather - 03/Sep/05
The loose rock was removed prior to Summer '04 but caution should still be exercised as the rock is very friable in places. The damage did appear to have been deliberate and malicious.
JIB - 02/Jun/05
After someone deliberatly removed a large portion of sandstone the main wall is now unusable for climbing and abseiling as it has many large and loose boulders on the top
allan shaw - 20/Apr/04
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