UKC

800m, 26 pitches. You will need a good guide book. And still it's easy to loose the way..
Approach 1 hrs. (Check the way down from the Promontoir hut to the abseilpoint the evening before!) Climbing 7 to 9 hrs.

Allain, Leininger 21/Aug/1935.

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Extreme Alpine Rock , Big Alpine Routes , Alps 22

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User Date Notes
tintinandpip 15 Apr Show βeta
βeta: From the Promontoire hut descended to the glacier easily with 60m rope - 2 abs. Took a little time to satisfy our selves that we were at the start of the route - but we started on slabs under the middle gully/water fall- essentially in a bay which was formed by a buttress of rock which protruded in to the glacier and effectively ended it. Traversed on a shallow rightwards angle to cross an arĂȘte via a little wall which then gave us access to easier ground and ultimately the low angled Fauteuil slope above. Headed rightwards the right hand end of the roofs which can be identified the night before from the Crapaud and climbed a few slightly steeper pitches into an easier rightwards slanting ramp. We went too far on the easier ground and only stopped when the way was looking unlikely and unclimbed - approx 150m below a large roof section - a peg and tat rap station suggested we werent the first to do this and we abed diagonally left 30m on to a more obvious traverse line which put us back on route. Made our way more easily to the Cheminee Verte - again an obvious feature identified the night before from the Crapaud. From here the line to the top more obvious - more pegs or the easiest passage - some of the climbing was more physical HVS/ E1 moves and some rock in the upper section a bit more dubious and potentially serious. Finished along the traverse. Start 04:15, 10:00 at the obvious roofs. 12:00 on the summit, 2 1/2 hrs for the traverse, back at Arsin car park 17:15. Used crampons to cross the glaciers and on the traverse, Longest abseil was 55 meters to clear the berg on the decent.
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βeta: From the Promontoire hut descended to the glacier easily with 60m rope - 2 abs. Took a little time to satisfy our selves that we were at the start of the route - but we started on slabs under the middle gully/water fall- essentially in a bay which was formed by a buttress of rock which protruded in to the glacier and effectively ended it. Traversed on a shallow rightwards angle to cross an arĂȘte via a little wall which then gave us access to easier ground and ultimately the low angled Fauteuil slope above. Headed rightwards the right hand end of the roofs which can be identified the night before from the Crapaud and climbed a few slightly steeper pitches into an easier rightwards slanting ramp. We went too far on the easier ground and only stopped when the way was looking unlikely and unclimbed - approx 150m below a large roof section - a peg and tat rap station suggested we werent the first to do this and we abed diagonally left 30m on to a more obvious traverse line which put us back on route. Made our way more easily to the Cheminee Verte - again an obvious feature identified the night before from the Crapaud. From here the line to the top more obvious - more pegs or the easiest passage - some of the climbing was more physical HVS/ E1 moves and some rock in the upper section a bit more dubious and potentially serious. Finished along the traverse. Start 04:15, 10:00 at the obvious roofs. 12:00 on the summit, 2 1/2 hrs for the traverse, back at Arsin car park 17:15. Used crampons to cross the glaciers and on the traverse, Longest abseil was 55 meters to clear the berg on the decent.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
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Onsighted
DNF
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Route of Interest
Allo la Terre

Grade: TD ***
(Tour Termier)

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