UKC

Rockfax Description
From the jug at the back, blast out through the roof using the crimp and a funky move to and around the lip. This version uses the boulder at the back of the roof for feet. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start from the jug rail at the back of the roof. Standing on the foot block move to the crimp then launch directly to good holds around the lip and finish above. Has become easier with time as the holds have worn, the grade given reflects this.

Mikey Cleverdon Nov/2010.

Ticklists

MoorMan Magic , South West Projects , A Tall Order , Winter Bouldering in the UK - 7's , The List

Feedback

User Date Notes
colegosney 12 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Had a dream about some new beta and went to the hold past the lip this time, should have just done that from the beginning. Fookin nails for the lip beta
Show beta
βeta: Had a dream about some new beta and went to the hold past the lip this time, should have just done that from the beginning. Fookin nails for the lip beta
aclimbingsmith 20 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Felt nails to me, i did it the standard way jumping to the lip. didn't feel much different to VIP.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Felt nails to me, i did it the standard way jumping to the lip. didn't feel much different to VIP.
The Wheel Thing 23 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Seems a lot easier for the tall as they can reach the crimp on the back of the roof statically, avoiding the difficult cut loose swing short climbers must do.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seems a lot easier for the tall as they can reach the crimp on the back of the roof statically, avoiding the difficult cut loose swing short climbers must do.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f7C
Mid f7C
Low f7C
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gully Wall Eliminate Link Up

Grade: f7B+ ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)

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