Climbs 125
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 241m a.s.l
Faces SW
Barry Rawlinson 'Breaking the Law', 1st ascent. © dillon_archer
Crag features
This is really two crags; the quarry (which has a number of faces) and Skyline Buttress, a natural crag (some of which overlooks the quarry) that is in the wood up and to the left.
Both crags are approached from the ample parking place below the quarry.
Approach to Skyline is through the woods following a steep path up the left edge of the left quarry. The rock at Skyline is generally excellent flaky/pocketed linestone leading to fingery climbing. Less sound rock in the quarry is generally ok and off-vertical. Balance climbing tends to be the order of the day. The trad climbs in the quarry are often 'stimulating'.
Skyline has been further bolted since the Rockfax guide came out and all of the main routes can now be considered sport climbs.
Approach notes
It should be assumed both are covered by the same bird ban at certain times of the year (see BMC RAD). The ban starts on 1st March and goes on until 15th July though it is sometimes lifted early if the birds do not hatch chicks - a notice is usually found at the car park. Note the car park is currently closed for building work. Park sensibly further back nrbthe bridge taking care to allow access for construction vehicles.
NB Crag X is where Left Buttress is indcated on the map and is probably best approached from the footpath from Stainforth dropping fown a short gulley before the stile onto the top? Left Buttress is a hundred metres or so back towards Skyline, This approach is NOT recomended in the latest mini guide, please approach from the main quarry as recomended.
Access Advice
Langcliffe is regularly patrolled by YDNPA wardens and conservation volunteers. The quarry area is also designated as a Scheduled Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 and English Heritage consider that any further drilling to place bolts may constitute a criminal offence unless consent is gained via them from the Secretary of State.
Skyline Buttress is in private ownership and no formal access agreement is in place. Negotiations have failed to resolve the issue with the landowner of this buttress, who has occasionally asked climbers to leave.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
2023 Update - Bird restriction lifted early. No restriction from 19th July onward.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
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