UKC

Climbs 114
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 241m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Barry Rawlinson 'Breaking the Law', 1st ascent. © dillon_archer

Crag features

This is really two crags; the quarry (which has a number of faces) and Skyline Buttress, a natural crag (some of which overlooks the quarry) that is in the wood up and to the left.
Both crags are approached from the ample parking place below the quarry.
Approach to Skyline is through the woods following a steep path up the left edge of the left quarry. The rock at Skyline is generally excellent flaky/pocketed linestone leading to fingery climbing. Less sound rock in the quarry is generally ok and off-vertical. Balance climbing tends to be the order of the day. The trad climbs in the quarry are often 'stimulating'.

Skyline has been further bolted since the Rockfax guide came out and all of the main routes can now be considered sport climbs.

Approach notes

It should be assumed both are covered by the same bird ban at certain times of the year (see BMC RAD). The ban starts on 1st March and goes on until 15th July though it is sometimes lifted early if the birds do not hatch chicks - a notice is usually found at the car park.

Access Advice

Langcliffe is regularly patrolled by YDNPA wardens and conservation volunteers. The quarry area is also designated as a Scheduled Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 and English Heritage consider that any further drilling to place bolts may constitute a criminal offence unless consent is gained via them from the Secretary of State.

Skyline Buttress is in private ownership and no formal access agreement is in place. Negotiations have failed to resolve the issue with the landowner of this buttress, who has occasionally asked climbers to leave. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to Crag X - the esoteric crag in the woods at the northern end of Langcliffe Scar.

The previous restriction covering the quarry and Skyline Buttress has been lifted as the birds are not nesting this year.

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Climbs at this crag

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