UKC

Rockfax Description
IV, 200m (in addition to the normal route), 7 - 8 hours. The Traverse is not climbed often but those who have done it are usually full of praise. The description begins where the Normal Route finishes on the East Summit. In good conditions virtually all of the terrain other than the ridge crest should be snowy, but with plenty of rock to provide protection. The technical difficulties on section 4 are highly condition dependent. The route is exposed throughout and covers a lot of ground - allow at least 14 hours for the round trip from the hut.
1) Follow the ridge crest easily down to some beautiful rock teeth. Pass onto the right of the ridge to get round these and then come back onto the ridge after the final one.
2) Make a 30m abseil down a chimney onto a snow/mixed slope beneath the Brèche des Droites.
3) Traverse under a triangular pinnacle and then scramble back onto the ridge crest.
4) Follow the crest, avoiding anything too technical by dropping off to the right of the ridge, to the west summit.
5) Scramble south down a short a gully and then make a long mixed traverse across the top of the South Face, under the Tour des Droites, to rejoin the ridge at a wide col.
6) Continue down the ridge to the Col de l'Aiguille Verte. © Rockfax

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Route of Interest
Migot Spur

Grade: D- 3 ***
(Aiguille du Chardonnet)

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