UKC

1050m. Excellent route on sound rock but for the chimney pitch below the Jammed Block.
Below the 90m corner it has not been affected by the rockfall, but the lower slabs are still a dangerous place to be on daytime.
From the top of the 90m corner is possible to do an A1 traverse and reach the N Face route, thus avoiding the top pitches which run next to the rockfall and is said to have loads of loose rock.
It is also possible to rap straight down from the same point.

A topo here http://www.caranorte.com/alpinismo/dru/itinerarios/directa_americana2.php in Spanish...

Royal Robbins and Gary Hemming 26/Jul/1962.

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Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Alpine Grande Courses, Euro Alpine Rock, Big Alpine Routes

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest

Verdon Memories

Grade: ED1 ***
(Aiguille du Peigne)
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