There are so many permutations for this traverse it's impossible to detail all of them here. It can be done in either direction. One thing to bear in mind, however, is that it provides a splendid end to the day after a route on the SE face. As long as you can (or want to) climb your chosen route carrying a sac, simply turn right at the top and keep traversing until you can scramble / walk back to the dam. If doing the traverse in it's own right take a 50m rope, a few nuts and some slings. Depending on how much of it you do and in which direction, there are some abseils and some easyish pitches (3+ / 4). All abseils are from bolted stances. The grade given in the CAS guide should be taken with a pinch of salt - AD to D+! This puts it on par with the Hornli and Zmutt ridges of the Matterhorn, which clearly it is not. It can easily be done in good approach shoes / light boots. I retain the CAS grade just to be 'correct'.

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Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax

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