UKC

Rockfax Description
450m. This superb traverse is great practice for more exposed ridges in the higher peaks or as a half day when the weather isn't great higher up.
Start up the cairned gully at the top of the approach.
1) Go up the gully on the East Face of the Aiguille du Van to the brèche between the north and south summit. This is scrambling, mostly on scree but with a couple of trickier steps.
2) Cross the brèche and descend slightly to reach ledges below the south summit. Follow these to gain the ridgeline. Follow the ridge easily to the summit of the Grand Perron.
3) From the summit, continue along the ridge for 25m to a bolted anchor where the ground drops away. Make a 20m abseil to a large slabby platform and gain another anchor at the far end of this. Make a 25m abseil here and scramble down the ridge for 20m to a third anchor. Make a 20m abseil here to the brèche.
4) From the brèche, follow slabs upwards on the right-hand side to gain ledges that allow you to move back left to the ridge. Alternatively, head straight up a corner (3c) just right of the brèche and then follow the ridgeline above.
5) Follow the ridge to the top of Pointe Vouilloz - there are several options.
6) From the summit, climb down the ridge to eventually pass through a notch onto the north side of the ridge shortly after a shoulder. From here, make two 25m abseils from bolted anchors, down the north side, to a terrace below.
7) Traverse the terrace under the Pain du Sucre to the brèche between Pointe Vouilloz and Pointe de l'Ifala.
8) Start 5m right on the north side of Pointe de l'Ifala and follow a series of grooves (4a) that lead up to the ridge. Be careful not to exit early through the gully with the jammed block, but exit further right. Follow the ridge to the summit (3a).
9) Follow the ridge easily down towards the Brèche du Perrons (not visible on topo). Alternatively, 60m below the summit, take the right-hand ridgeline to a cairn and then follow a path on the left down scree. This is slightly quicker.
Descent -Follow the path down the Veudale gorges back towards the Lac Emosson. Gain the concrete road and follow this back across the Dam to the car © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There are so many permutations for this traverse it's impossible to detail all of them here. It can be done in either direction. One thing to bear in mind, however, is that it provides a splendid end to the day after a route on the SE face. As long as you can (or want to) climb your chosen route carrying a sac, simply turn right at the top and keep traversing until you can scramble / walk back to the dam. If doing the traverse in it's own right take a 50m rope, a few nuts and some slings. Depending on how much of it you do and in which direction, there are some abseils and some easyish pitches (3+ / 4). All abseils are from bolted stances. The grade given in the CAS guide should be taken with a pinch of salt - AD to D+! This puts it on par with the Hornli and Zmutt ridges of the Matterhorn, which clearly it is not. It can easily be done in good approach shoes / light boots. I retain the CAS grade just to be 'correct'.

Ticklists

Great Alpine routes not in Chamonix Rockfax 1st Ed.

Feedback

User Date Notes
cdpej 28 Jul Show βeta
βeta: I have done this 9 times but to call it a "half day" is wrong. I did it recently with a fit partner in 6hr 40 (car to car) and that's with an early start, no one else on it and knowing it well including the "short cut" descent at the end. 8-9 hours is much more comfortable although its quicker at the beginning of the season when you can run down snow in the Veudale gorge
Show beta
βeta: I have done this 9 times but to call it a "half day" is wrong. I did it recently with a fit partner in 6hr 40 (car to car) and that's with an early start, no one else on it and knowing it well including the "short cut" descent at the end. 8-9 hours is much more comfortable although its quicker at the beginning of the season when you can run down snow in the Veudale gorge
Mike-W-99 28 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Popular, get up early to miss the crowds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Popular, get up early to miss the crowds.
TomGB 22 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: There is another abseil on the way to the Breche from the final summit that isn't mentioned in the book (or wasn't in the one I have)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is another abseil on the way to the Breche from the final summit that isn't mentioned in the book (or wasn't in the one I have)

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Guidebooks for Les Perrons de Vallorcine

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Voting
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
Votes cast 14
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3+
Mid 3+
Low 3+
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Arete des Cosmiques

Grade: AD 3 ***
(Aiguille du Midi)

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