UKC

Climbs 47
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

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milky clipping © Tom Russell

Crag features

Very sheltered and sunny aspect with climbing on mainly vertical quarried walls. Most routes start from ledge above deep pool. Takes no seepage so year-round climbing possible.

Some reasonable bouldering on short walls at entrance, mainly traversing and all of the harder traverses eliminate the good holds. 
the grades for these appear as Boulder grades ie Font but are in fact sport climbing equivalent grades.

These have been used as Boulder traverses grades are almost impossible to agree on! 

 

Approach notes

Head Northwest out of Dundee on A923, passing through Birkhill. Midway through Muirhead, follow A923 left, heading for Coupar Angus. Follow A923 for approx 10Km, passing Piperdam, Lundie, Tullybaccart and eventually Pitcur. Almost immediately after Pitcur turn right at the sign for Newtyle (Grid ref NO248372) onto small country road. Follow road to Village of Ley. Just before the 2nd house on right there is an indistinct track (Grid
ref NO253377) leading up to woods. Drive up track: parking beside reservoir. Follow the track up past the gate - the quarry can be seen on the right.

Important: Please don't block the track and park considerately. Inconsiderate parking may cause access issues.

Access Advice

it is vitally important that parked vehicles do not obstruct the approach track to the reservoir or the track leading on beyond this.

At present there is adequate parking beside the reservoir for upto 6 vehicles if parked considerately.

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Guidebooks

An impressive face. The whole place seemed overgrown yet the main face always looked impressively clean. Myself and Dave did a lot of clearing, many holds seemed permi-dirty/sandy and more traffic would do it good in this respect, though it doesn't lend itself to large numbers and the sandstone wears away... The walkway is brilliant, and gives the place a lot of interest (and makes belay changeovers fun!).
Kevin Woods - 18/Mar/14
It was the choice for the day as the weather was bad in Glen Clova, Routes were ok but I enjoyed the bouldering much more than the routes and I am not a keen boulderer by any means. Some of the routes feel like the bolts are in a dangerous position if you dont have a clipstick and are onsighting.
Sandy Simpson - 28/Sep/09
if you are vertically challenged then stay away from this place! a great place for lanky types i would think
Lead dnf - 27/Sep/09
The purists should note that most of the routes are chipped. Nonetheless good quality sports climbing generally characterised by long stretches between teeny holds on vertical rock.
Eric9Points - 04/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

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