Very sheltered and sunny aspect with climbing on mainly vertical quarried walls. Most routes start from ledge above deep pool. Takes no seepage so year-round climbing possible.
Some reasonable bouldering on short walls at entrance, mainly traversing and all of the harder traverses eliminate the good holds.
the grades for these appear as Boulder grades ie Font but are in fact sport climbing equivalent grades.
These have been used as Boulder traverses grades are almost impossible to agree on!
Head Northwest out of Dundee on A923, passing through Birkhill. Midway through Muirhead, follow A923 left, heading for Coupar Angus. Follow A923 for approx 10Km, passing Piperdam, Lundie, Tullybaccart and eventually Pitcur. Almost immediately after Pitcur turn right at the sign for Newtyle (Grid ref NO248372) onto small country road. Follow road to Village of Ley. Just before the 2nd house on right there is an indistinct track (Grid
ref NO253377) leading up to woods. Drive up track: parking beside reservoir (56.524915, -3.211856). Follow the track up past the gate - the quarry can be seen on the right.
Important: Please don't block the track and park considerately. Inconsiderate parking may cause access issues.