UKC

This problem is in the middle / left of the bouldering wall and begins under the Sloper Lip Traverse just left of Beechbone and underneath the obvious big ledges. From a sitting start, begin with your right hand palming / pressing down low on a sloped ledge, with the left hand on a small crimp, while both feet are out to left standing on the same sloped ledge break to allow the hips to be tuned right-side into the wall. Make a strenuous move to pull on and then swing the left foot up to get moment to help catch the sloper lip with the right, then readjust feet and gain a shallow two finger pocket with the left and bring the right foot across to stand on the good sloped ledge. From here, reach into the jugs in the break, smear with a high left foot and pop up to the big ledge and bring both feet up onto the sloper lip, then move up and left to the next big ledge to help gain a crimp directly above in the break. Next, palm down with the right hand and get a high left foot onto the ledge, then mantle / pull up and rock over the left knee to reach the jug below the tree root and match to finish.

A fairly technical and powerful start leads to easier climbing with nice moves. The problem can be made much easier from a standing start using the jugs in the break (4+).

Craig MacLeod and Andy Blair.

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Route of Interest
D.I.Y

Grade: f6B ***
(Craig Laggan Boulders)

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