UKC

Climbs 13
Rocktype Volcanic tuff
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Claire Durant Redpointing 'Valley of the blind' 7c, Cheddar. © _m.cox_

Crag features

A beginner friendly dome of rock in an idyllic open woodland setting overlooking Snowdon and Llyn Padarn.
Covered in very sharp positive flakey holds and cracklines.

Climb where you want. At the first big ledge system there are many bolts and stakes placed by local centres, but also plenty of natural cracks, flakes and trees to set up belays.

It is possible to do a 3 pitch climb to the summit, the middle pitch being an easy scramble and the top pitch a lovely crack at about D/VD.

Take friends and family and have a picnic - good spot for non climbers also.

WARNING - Can get very busy with groups.

N.B.Please don't bother recording or naming lines here. Every inch of beautiful sharp rock has been soloed up down and sideways in trainers by generations of Llanberis habituees.

Topo available here: https://www.jbmountainskills.co.uk/post/lion-rock-and-union-rock-topo

Approach notes

Easily seen from the A4086 Llanberis road.

Look across Llyn Padarn to spot an obvious pale dome of rock rising from mixed woodland with an ariel mast further up and to the right on the same hillside.

Drive over the bridge at the bottom of the lake (Yellow Wall bouldering area is near here) and head up the Fachwen lane. After a squiggle in the road it heads uphill. After a few hundred metres there is an obvious carpark on the right, with the path to the crag opposite on the left of the road looking uphill. 5 short minutes approach - look out for the wild roosters.

Up and to the right of Lion Rocks is the slightly steeper Spotty Crag recognised by the doorway shaped cave at its base.

Lower and left hidden in the trees is the delightful Basils/Pinetree Boulders - omitted from the North Wales Bouldering guide

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

I've done a rough topo of Lion Rock which someone may find useful http://www.jbmountainskills.co.uk/news/lion-rock-union-rock-llanberis-topo
jezb1 - 25/Feb/15
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Climbs at this crag

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