Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 42m a.s.l
Amazing, extensive sea cliff on good rock. Think Chair Ladder ten times bigger on its best summers day. Mix of trad and sport, mostly single pitch up to 30m. friendly grade range, though below 5.10 there is a higher proportion of trad climbs. Some DWS and bouldering, though it is less documented. Rock is Red Sandstone, mostly pretty hard, varying slightly from area to area, sometimes with lots of hard quartz critals, other times much smoother.
A car can be useful in Taiwan if you plan on visiting a lot of the island (beautiful National Parks in the mountains, home to many good hikes). The roads aren't as hectic as in other SE Asian countries, though beware it will still be a fair bit wilder than driving in the UK, particularly because of the amount of scooters shooting around. Renting scooters can also be a good local alternative (arrange ahead of time). If you plan on mainly staying in Long Dong (Perhaps visiting Taipei on your way in/out - be sure to taste the many amazing foods here!), then travelling by train/bus/taxi is a very reasonable option.
Popular crag with Taiwanese climbers, a fair amount of rebolting has been redone since the guidebook was published. The Bivy in Bidou port normally keeps a print of the log of all updates and rebolting activity. If visiting Long Dong, 'The Bivy' hostel is run by rock climbing instructors QX and Kelly and a popular place for climbers to stay. Gear rental available from there (and bolt fund donation box).
Though the port is quite small it is quite popular for fishing (mostly locals) and diving/snorkelling. There are many shops providing gear rental and guiding for the later which makes for a great rest day activity. Beware the waters around Taiwan are know to be treacherous, particularly due to strong currents, riptides and freak waves caused by typhoons and/or earthquakes. It is quite easy to avoid danger though, this part of the coast being reasonably safe, but getting some local knowledge before going out is important.
A 7-eleven is available in Bidou, it has an ATM (£2 withdrawal fee - 2019) and basic groceries (don't drink tapwater in Taiwan, even the locals don't). Many food stands and restaurants are available in town, though beware the prices can vary dramatically from one place to the next (Meal for under £2 in one stand, over £20 in the restaurant next door!). There is a "Lunchbox" place on the road between Bidou port and the crag which is quite well known and a good place to get lunch.
Lots more information and guidebook order on http://www.climbstone.com/index.html
From Taipei to Bidou/Long Dong:
_ By car: Head North East from Taipei city for Long Dong, drive along the coast past Keelung on route 62.
_ By train: Get the train to Ruifang then a bus to Bidou
From Bidou to the crags:
The crags are on the opposite side of the bay from Bidou port, a 5min drive or 30min walk away (walking path most of the way). Buses also run along that road.
The crags all line up North to South along the Long Dong Bay Promontory. Depending on the crag you can either approach via the North (park near Hemei Elementary School if driving, walk to the end of the port and follow the painted arrows across the boulder beaches), or via the South (small car park, take the small path down towards the cliff, past a viewing platform and down the fishermen's access to the bottom of the crags).
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