UKC

Climbs 34
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 116m a.s.l
Faces E

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Si clipping on Ground Zero © Dave Bond

Crag features

This neglected quarry to the south of Matlock features a fine vertical wall of compact rock. The steep crack lines date back to the early 80's and the original sport routes were developed in the late 90's by Pete Cresswell.

The crag became somewhat neglected until 2008 when Jon Clark gave the wall a complete overhaul, re-bolting all the original sport routes and adding a handful of hard new additions. The routes are long (25m in places) and most are very sustained.

It is now an excellent venue for anyone looking to push their grade into the hard 7's.

Restricted Access

The access situation here may change very soon due to a housing development. Site clearance work has taken place, but construction is yet to commence. 

Note that the council car park at the bottom of the crag has steel gates that get locked well before dark in the summer months. If you do get locked in you can get out fairly easily by removing the two bolts on the centre gate post and pulling both gates forward. Make sure you replace the bolts when done. It's also handy to have a good brush at the crag as the routes can get a bit dusty making the holds slippery.
stp - 01/Aug/15
Thanks for the advice. It does look very overgrown - its just that i work down that way often and have an hour or two to spare some times and difficult to find partners at such short notice. i use horseshoe for convenience on dropping a rope down and shunting - the routes at lorry park look terrific and people have done a great job bolting, cleaning and climbing them. If i can get strong enough would love to climb there this year. Best regards. John
john yates - 13/Jun/10
I wouldn't recommend trying to get to the top of the crag, its a bit awkward and overgrown. Best just to go with a partner.
jondude - 12/Jun/10
Went to look at the quarry today and it has some super looking routes. Is it possible to access the top of the quarry and set up a rope to shunt some of the routes? Took the footpath off the steep road in the middle of matlock, but the final few yards to the cliff edge seemed barred by dense thickets of nettles and brambles. Could the locals advise?
john yates - 10/Jun/10
Nice one Pete even with a bit more traffic it can still quiet and a bit adventurey
matt - 31/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

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