120m, 3 pitches.
One of the true classic Leap lines in three pitches:
1) Sustained 5.6/7 with gear where needed, and lacking where not. Flakes lead to run-out slab moves left to thin laybacking. Upwards, the gear is better and the flakes larger until a reasonable ledge is reached (gear high for the belay).
2) After relatively few moves above the belay, the eponymous move is upon you. If you have the reach (and it's a huge 5.7), getting between the undercut and jug is easy. If not, tenuous moves right and up will achieve the same jugs. Easier overlaps (5.6) then reach the (Once A) Bushy Ledge - many routes meet here, so expect to have company.
3) Moves and gear a plenty up much easier 5.6 lead to upper ledge. Either place high gear and traverse off right, or finish direct via a 5.9 mantel.
Pitch two would make a VS leader think twice - probably easy HVS overall.
1) Sustained 5.6/7 with gear where needed, and lacking where not. Flakes lead to run-out slab moves left to thin laybacking. Upwards, the gear is better and the flakes larger until a reasonable ledge is reached (gear high for the belay).
2) After relatively few moves above the belay, the eponymous move is upon you. If you have the reach (and it's a huge 5.7), getting between the undercut and jug is easy. If not, tenuous moves right and up will achieve the same jugs. Easier overlaps (5.6) then reach the (Once A) Bushy Ledge - many routes meet here, so expect to have company.
3) Moves and gear a plenty up much easier 5.6 lead to upper ledge. Either place high gear and traverse off right, or finish direct via a 5.9 mantel.
Pitch two would make a VS leader think twice - probably easy HVS overall.
Phil Berry, Robin Linnett 1956.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
70 users have logged this
25 users have this on their wishlistPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Corrugation Corner
Grade: 5.7 ***
(Lover's Leap)