UKC

35m.

Rockfax Description
A fabulous route that follows the sweeping, wide break across the face of the fin and is topped off by a well-positioned thin crack. Start at a vague line of holds that lead up to the break.
Climb up the wall to the left-slanting break. Follow the break all the way to a broken niche and climb up the wall above via a thin crack to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic North Coast E1 which gives strenuous climbing along the obvious diagonal line. Take care with rope work and the increasingly loose block on the top wall.

FA. Pat Littlejohn 3.4.71 03/Apr/1971.

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very cool route in a very cool amphitheatre of amazin geology. Eyeing up the splaying of legs / chimney climbing near the shore line (one day). I think getting off the deck was probably the hardest part. Very enjoyable climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: Very cool route in a very cool amphitheatre of amazin geology. Eyeing up the splaying of legs / chimney climbing near the shore line (one day). I think getting off the deck was probably the hardest part. Very enjoyable climbing.
chris j 12 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The loose block at the top of the niche shifted about 20cm outwards today (but stayed in situ). You can climb around without touching it but be careful!
βeta?
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βeta: The loose block at the top of the niche shifted about 20cm outwards today (but stayed in situ). You can climb around without touching it but be careful!
chris j 15 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Worryingly loose rocking block at the top of the niche but it must be held in pretty well as it didn't come out when I swung on it, jammed behind it and then stood on it...
βeta?
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βeta: Worryingly loose rocking block at the top of the niche but it must be held in pretty well as it didn't come out when I swung on it, jammed behind it and then stood on it...

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 131
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 129
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bishop's Rib

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chair Ladder)

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