At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 372m a.s.l
Unknown climber on the Arete de Marseille, Chandelle, Calanques © cat22
Luminy is located in the heart of the Calanques. Although only a minor Calanque with a couple of tiny beaches, the dramatic scenery and acres of rock make it a prime destination. From the towering brown walls of the Paroi des Toits to the soaring ridges and faces of the Aiguille de Sugiton, there is a lot to choose from here. As ever there are many more climbs and cliffs than are described in this book, consult the local guide for more details if you are exploring this fascinating area.
A variety of cliffs means there is something here for most conditions. The routes described on the Aiguille du Sugiton get afternoon shade, the Paroi des Toits faces southwest and can be a furnace on summer afternoons. It is one of the area's prime venues on Mistral days and is steep enough to stay dry in the rain. Seepage can be a problem after prolonged wet spells.
Head for the university campus at Luminy, which is a pool of tranquillity surrounded by the rocky hills of the Calanques, it feels a thousand miles from the city and is situated due south of the city and is well signed. There is extensive and free public parking in the centre of the complex, though it does get pretty full at weekends. A good gravel-track runs south from the campus heading gradually uphill to reach the Col de Sugiton. The track to reach the Paroi Noire above Sormiou branches right before the col is reached. For the rest of the cliffs follow the path that winds down into the Calanque. If having a full day on the Paroi du Toits it is worth saving a bit of puff for the return journey!
|Rockfax approach is not clear for PdT. At the col take the east path, follow it round a big half moon shaped short crag, at the end of the rock, take a minor path down to the right ( near a ousieau information plaque, before the green barrier) this leads to the crag. The routes we did in the 6s were desperately polished, beware!|
George_Surf - 02/Dec/17
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