UKC

50m, 3 pitches. This route links a series of prominent corners in the north wall of the Zawn and has some excellent climbing on all three pitches. Start from the boulder beach in a corner just left of the tunnel that links Double Headed Zawn with Grand Falls Zawn. The start is accessible for about 2 hours either side of low tide. Approach by abseil using various boulders in the grass slope above the line. An alternative, more adventurous approach would be to abseil into Grand Falls Zawn as for American Beauty and walk through the tunnel.
15m 5c Climb the corner for 4m. Arrange protection before making a delicate traverse left to gain a hanging groove in the left arete. Follow this easily, to a belay on ledges, at the base of a wide crack.
15m 5a Follow the wide crack then step left to the bottom of a giant flake on the left wall of the main corner. Layback the wide crack in the back of the corner to a belay on the left, on top of the flake.
20m 5b Continue up the corner through a steepening. Traverse up and right to the arĂȘte. Step around the arĂȘte into a slim hanging corner that leads to the top. Belay well back to blocks in the grass slope.

Peter Davies & Tim Marsh 15/Sep/2022.

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Route of Interest
Aviation/Rhinoceros

Grade: E2 5a ***
(Haytor)

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