Climbs 154
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 234m a.s.l

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Perfect autumn day, bouldering at one of Devon's hidden gems © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing

Crag features

The bouldering in this area is still being developed and these along with the routes give a very worthwhile venue particulary when combined with another of the Lustleigh venues. The rock at Lustleigh is some of the finest and best on the moor making some of the problems well worth a visit purely for this factor.

The Nutcracker area is made up of around six small sectors containing between 2 to 6 problems each. The first area contains the pinnacle, Over the hill and the slopey boulder and is reached along the path just before the butress containing the routes Bamboozled E4 6a** and Lev E6 6b***.

Further still into the forest is the Harton chest zone and then a rather blurred line between that and the Raven Rocks zone complete the main forest sectors.

More climbing is available around Lustleigh at the Sacrifical Virgin boulder and the Ravens Tor sector but these are farther away.

Further details for the routes can be found in the guide and on

Approach notes

From Bovey Tracey take the Manaton road. Carry on along here until a right turn at the bottom of a hill signed for Lustleigh. Follow this road for approx. 1 mile, over a bridge and then take a left turn immediately after. Carry straight on along here for about 1 mile until parking spots on the side of the road. This is just before a footpath on the left with sign for Hunter's Tor, opposite some posh houses one called "LoganStone". To get to the Nutcracker area follow the path directly up the hill untilyou reach the top plateau. From here follow the path leftwards for a couple of minutes to discover the boulders among the trees!!

Boulders are described from the lowest to the farthest away from the parking and GPS locations have been added wherever possible. It is perhaps easier to follow the path to the top of the Nutcrackers sector and descend but the GPS locations should lift some of the long entrenched mystery of this area.

Not sure why this place is described as a gem. If mossy, lichen covered rock, bad landings and hours of scrabbling through brambles and bracken is your thing... Sure it's a gem.
apwebber - 01/Aug/18
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