Martin McKenna on one of Pembroke's finest DWS: Restraint of Beasts (6b+), Skomar Arch © Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing
This complex area is remarkable for its plethora of walls, caves and buttresses. The climbing here is disjointed and well spread out although there are some great spots for the enthusiast. The climbing on offer is a mix of isolated pitches and some deep water solos. Unlike many of the other areas in Pembroke, the Lydstep area is not affected by seasonal bird bans or the movements of the army - now you just have the tides to worry about!Â
No Man's Zawn - From Pembroke, take the A4139 towards Tenby. Turn off the A4139 at the (second, eastern-most) sign for Manorbier, which includes a sign for Shrinkle Haven. Follow the road for about 1km, and turn left at another sign for Shrinkle Haven and the Youth Hostel. Follow the road down through the de-restricted signs, and around a sharp left bend by the Royal Artillery Range gate. Continue past the youth hostel, to a group of car parks, and park at the last one, at the top of a short flight of steps.
All the Other Crags - From the A4139 Pembroke to Tenby road, drive into Lydstep village and find the Lydstep Tavern pub. 50m west of the pub is a small road heading south/downhill; take this and follow it (rough in places) all the way down to a sudden left bend. Turn right on this bend (blue sign: 'headland') and drive up over a cattle grid into the car park. All the Lydstep Cavern crags are described from the Mother Carey's Kitchen car park.
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