Climbs 74
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 490m a.s.l
Faces W

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Audrey Seguy on Un Nouveau Monde Right (7b+) Malaucène © Adrian Berry

Crag features

While Malaucène (strictly speaking 'Rochers du Groseau') isn't an extensive area, and is not exactly a 'happening place', the routes are quite brilliant, and it's not likely you will ever find it crowded.

Most parts of the crag get the mid-to-late afternoon sun, though many of the starts are well-sheltered by trees and some parts get none at all. In the winter the crag can get very cold. Malaucène often seems to get more wind than Saint Léger, so can be a good option for warmer days.

Approach notes

From the town of Malaucène, take the road signed to 'Le Grozeau' and follow this until you reach a campsite and a bar with a small pond opposite it. Fifty metres before you reach the bar, a rough track leads off on the left, follow this and park near the old mine buildings. There are a number of tracks leading up towards the crags, the simplest way is to walk down to the road and follow it past the bar to the pond. From here pick up a trail leading through the woods, soon, the crags appear on the right. The first you come to is short, hard, vertical, and not described - continue to bigger and better things. 

Restricted Access

Notices at Du Bas area stating that climbing prohibited due to rock falls. Other areas have signs from the Forestry authority stating that the crags are unstable. 17/9/22

There are a bunch of signs put up by local conservationists that indicate climbing is forbidden at Malaucene for danger of rockfall. Spoke to a number of French locals who unanimously said climbing at Malaucene is not dangerous, the rock is so compact that there's little risk of rockfall, and is in fact permitted.
DanielGyi - 07/Aug/21
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