UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

18m.

Rockfax Description
Worthwhile and popular with some good independent climbing. Place some gear (or clip the bolts to the left) and climb the wall to a bolt. Traverse left to the end of the undercuts then finish straight up as for The Last Toad. © Rockfax

FA. Graham Desroy, Ashley Cowell 1985.

Ticklists

The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
accynez 24 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: This is now fully equipped and a proper sport route. The big flakey jugs at the bottom of the final corner have been stabilised but care still required.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is now fully equipped and a proper sport route. The big flakey jugs at the bottom of the final corner have been stabilised but care still required.
richardh 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: two bolts ( well spaced ) lead up the wall to the right hand end of the undercuts, there's a bolt at the left hand end, then up to tat/peg, then HVS ramble/gibber to the four bolt lower off. Not a clip up, but nothing more required either I think, they're well placed for imminent lobs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: two bolts ( well spaced ) lead up the wall to the right hand end of the undercuts, there's a bolt at the left hand end, then up to tat/peg, then HVS ramble/gibber to the four bolt lower off. Not a clip up, but nothing more required either I think, they're well placed for imminent lobs.
Dave Musgrove 14 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A devious line but still great climbing and the easiest way up this wall. Still not sure its a full clip-up? Dave
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A devious line but still great climbing and the easiest way up this wall. Still not sure its a full clip-up? Dave

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Late Night Final (Sport)

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Langcliffe Quarry)

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