UKC

Climbs 121
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 210m a.s.l

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Elderberry Crack, Markfield Quarry. © Kingsjester

Crag features

Quarried hill top on two levels. Very amenable. Mostly slabby routes, some quite steep, the best of which is Weak Walk. Clint Maskell and Mike Adams have added many hard boulder problems. Some easier slabby bouldering can be found on Upper Betty's Slab.

Topo for the trad routes can be found on the online version of the old Leicestershire Climbs Guidebook; bouldering topo can be found on Leicestershire Bouldering.

Approach notes

Park courteously by St Michael's Parish Church on The Green, Markfield LE67 9WD. There is a car park on Hill Lane which initially seems much more suitable but be warned that many cars have been broken into and vandalised when parking here. From the church walk up Mill Hill Lane. Follow the footpath up the hill, when you see the information board on your left continue straight to descend into the quarry bowl.

Restricted Access

New safety signing has been erected indicating the site owners (Hickley & Bosworth Borough Council) now prohibit a number of recreational activities in the quarry - including climbing and abseiling. Despite an approach to the Council by the BMC to discuss their concerns and the unfortunate situation of public land having restricted access in an area where it provides an important public amenity, no contact from the Council has been forthcoming. If climbers do decide to access the crag and are asked to leave by the landower, please be polite and pack away as soon as is safely possible. 

Be careful of break-ins at the car park.

Have been in the last couple of weeks. Access ok, sign still says no climbing, but this has always been the case. As previously reported if you're discreet it's not a problem. Could do with more traffic to clean up the rock or maybe a bmc clean up day!! Good for beginners and kids.
jwmurdoch - 11/Aug/15
Went over for the evening, I'd forgotten about all of the gorse! My second pulled a decent sized block off Titch and Hoot at the top, there may still be some loose rock about and the route may be slightly harder now.
spenser - 05/Jun/14
We went there from Notts, wanting a short drive if we got rained on. Decent crag, really fast drying after two flash hail showers. Surprisingly worthwhile considering the bad reviews I've heard of Leicestershire climbing.
OliverRoss - 23/Mar/14
3 enjoyable short days over the recent warm weather, find an aspect that suits! Abundance of gorse could do with clearing, otherwise solid clean rock with some pro', recomend rigging rope for belays on 'Betty;s peg'
Dave Pen - 28/Jul/13
There's a new car-park a little N of where the "layby" is marked on the map in the guidebook/website. Sadly, there's a new fence round the pond, which looks pretty impregnable now - blocking all the lower tier climbs and some of the Dead Bay area :-(
MatthewV - 04/Sep/11
Best place to park is in the village by the church, and follow the obvious path up
mark20 - 07/Aug/11
Last time I was there the Farmer who owns the field we go through for access told me that he didn't mind us going through but that YOU MUST NOT TAKE BOLT CUTTERS AND CUT THE FENCE. This guy is really cool about climbers using his property so please respect him and his livelihood.
zzzztj - 16/Sep/10
Attempted Baptism last night in the rain, took about 30 mins just to work a small path through the brambles on the ramp. great fun who would of thought you could go deep water soloing in Leicestershire!!
paulharmer - 03/Sep/09
Could the police not put some CCTV cameras on the layby? They may catch a few things.
Skinny Kin - 21/May/09
Been cleaning up pool wall as it has become a tad overgrown through lack of climbing. We going to work our way round to cleaning Batism as the approach is under loads of brambles, between the 2 I think theres some of the best climbs in leicestershire excluding the brand that is, Plain sailing is especially good mainly because arrows of desire just a little out of my range!
Nev Hallam - 04/May/09
We went there yesterday, good practice for first time slab soloing, Only averaged to get two sets of protection on each crag we did, however if you are using it for this, take micro nuts and cams on the smaller end of the scale. People using it friendly. Some areas of wall overgrown with greenery but a fine day out.
ronaldo45 - 14/Apr/09
Nice crag, mainly low grade but good fun. Park in the village (Markfield) somewhere and you'll be ok regarding break ins.
benjhans - 21/May/08
Went there today, 10/02/08 parked next to the church, havent noticed anything missing!! Nice spot, although access to climbs above water abit trickky due to monstrous green fence! Worth a look.
kevlad - 10/Feb/08
my car was broken into 9-8-7 between 18.00 and 21.00
dave jackson - 13/Aug/07
a pretty good place to climb, there's been a fire thats cleared all the bushes so all the rocks are easy to access, we had no problems with the car and just left it in the small carpark down the road, i recomend this place to anybody round here, its better than any of the other sites i have been to nearby. we had a good days climbing and pretty much had the place to ourselves
joe_hine - 14/Apr/07
Bla bla bla... im going to write a comment about the crag as opposed te the layby. Its nice. Its the best place in the area. Its easy & the gear is good. And where its not the gear is crap. It has some awesome routes on solid rock. And some absolute shyte on crumbly rubbish. Well worth a visit if your leading sub VS, above that, youll struggle to keep entertained all day.
John_Warner - 16/Nov/06
Rah rah rah! Yes I had my bag stolen from my car. I hate Markfield Quarry and curse it....don't park near to it otherwise you'll be as mad as me.....feel a little better for sharing.
Premal - 18/Oct/03
Can I repeat the WARNINGS about PARKING in LAYBY by QUARRY We didn't heed the advice and yes we got **** BROKEN INTO ***** Don't be a victim like us - take all valuableS out of the car and park somewhere else.
Dux - 18/Oct/03
Great place to visit , some easy hikes/climbs , but cannot emphasise enough DO NOT LEAVE YOUR CAR IN THE LAYBY NEAR THE QUARRY !! IT WILL BE BROKEN INTO.I park either on the industrial estate or the furniture shop car park nearby. Only 5 minute walk , but cheaper than a new window or worse.
IAN BOWER - 07/Jun/03
Not a bad place. Just watch where you put your car. Mine got broken into last time I was there.
Gareth Dixon - 10/Jun/02
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