At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
Altitude 222m a.s.l
Kalydna © Morgan Woods
The section of rock to the right of Panorama is a fine wide wall that runs all the way out to the white triangular wall of Zeus, beyond the open gully to the right of Poets. Although the rock formations are not quite as spectacular as the Grande Grotta, these walls have some brilliant and varied climbing and would be the showpiece walls in many a climbing area. The grade spread is good, with Coeur d'Armeos and Poets having the most to offer in the easier grades. The area is easily reached from the accommodation in Masouri. The cliffs are generally busy, though some sections see less traffic than others, particularly those towards Panorama - with harder routes and a longer walk.
Stankill and Ivory Tower are best approached from the Grande Grotta. Park by or opposite the Mermaid Statue. The track runs up to a gate, then a prominent olive tree, before heading out left and toiling up the scree path to the Grande Grotta.
For the other crags, use the 'Poets' Approach' - except for Kalydna which is about halfway between the two approaches. For Poets, the path starts up a short steep road beside the blue Lambrino Apartments and runs up the slope rightwards to reach a fence. Once above this, trend diagonally left across the hillside (cairns and paint) to reach various poor tracks that traverse the hillside - scramble up to your chosen buttress. For Poets and Zeus, keep heading right into the open gully and break out right or left at the top of this.
|Hi All, climbed at Zeus on April 12th 2013 and I pulled a very large piece of rock off Kallisto at the first big hole after the pocketed crux. You can still move left onto solid jugs but take care at both the large holes on this route as the "veneer" covering each hole is thin. Luckily the piece shattered on the face as it fell and my warning allowed my belayer to move to his right out of the way.|
Giles Davis - 14/Apr/13
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