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47m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular line here follows the long grooveline which is gained by a steep and impressive start. The climbing is a bit unbalanced but the line and situation more than make up for this. Start below and right of the main grooveline.
1) 5a, 15m. Pull up and traverse left, then climb direct to the stance. All easier than it looks.
2) 5c, 32m. A technical little move up the slab above (microwires) gains the main groove. Follow this, trending leftwards at the top. A fine pitch. © Rockfax

FA. S.Lewis, C.Heard 10/Oct/1979.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, UK Holiday Plans, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
ClimbingAlex 15 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Did this in a oner, would recommend pitching it in two, the rope drag at the top was horrendous!
βeta?
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βeta: Did this in a oner, would recommend pitching it in two, the rope drag at the top was horrendous!
aiyer 4 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: E2 5c in the new guidebook
βeta?
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βeta: E2 5c in the new guidebook
Frank the Husky 19 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: There's no block these days, so the start is pretty steep and intimidating.
βeta?
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βeta: There's no block these days, so the start is pretty steep and intimidating.
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. Protection is okay. The remainder is a pleasing romp with a marvellous step out onto the slab higher up.
βeta?
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βeta: The crux moves aren't too difficult but feel very slippery and insecure for E1. Protection is okay. The remainder is a pleasing romp with a marvellous step out onto the slab higher up.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch has a few steep pulls for 5a, no block to step off any more? Good pitch thjough very unbalanced, almost E2 for a few moves, then VS corner to the top!
βeta?
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βeta: First pitch has a few steep pulls for 5a, no block to step off any more? Good pitch thjough very unbalanced, almost E2 for a few moves, then VS corner to the top!
craig h 11 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, if I remember right the technical little move is protected with small wires? & RP's. All routes here are effected by the tides so worth leaving an abseil rope in place.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, if I remember right the technical little move is protected with small wires? & RP's. All routes here are effected by the tides so worth leaving an abseil rope in place.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 38
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Rock Idol

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)