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30m.

Rockfax Description
A fine expedition up the left edge of the bay, was originally done in three pitches, named after a famous London tearoom. A short groove (4b) leads into the cave. Head up the corner to the roof then traverse to the left arete and make difficult moves round to a narrow ledge. The leaning wall just to the left leads awkwardly to a rest and a finish up the superbly positioned final arete. © Rockfax

FAA. Kit Twyford, George Leaver 1957.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Millstone HVS's, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., Millstone * HVS In a day, 'The Quarrymen' Big Wall Training Route - Yosemite 5.9 ***, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Millstone Edge, DUMC Grit Gathering 2019, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
sheffieldchris 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: top climb with a bit of everything in it. the move out of the cave is the bottle crux, but think the move off the higher small ledge is the tecnical crux stood there thinking why am i finding this bit harder bit balency onto arete
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: top climb with a bit of everything in it. the move out of the cave is the bottle crux, but think the move off the higher small ledge is the tecnical crux stood there thinking why am i finding this bit harder bit balency onto arete
shaun walby 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Loverly enjoyable lower end HVS climbing. Just a tad tricky round the lip to the ledge then very steady to the top, well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loverly enjoyable lower end HVS climbing. Just a tad tricky round the lip to the ledge then very steady to the top, well protected.
Gripped 8 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoyable moves, a nice airy arete and a compact/solid top out (A rarity for Millstone!).
βeta?
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βeta: Enjoyable moves, a nice airy arete and a compact/solid top out (A rarity for Millstone!).
James B 2 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: My first HVS lead so I'm biased! But it's very varied, a good but scary move coming out of the cave, nice face/arete climbing after. And it's one of the few Millstone climbs that isn't s*dding crack-jamming
βeta?
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βeta: My first HVS lead so I'm biased! But it's very varied, a good but scary move coming out of the cave, nice face/arete climbing after. And it's one of the few Millstone climbs that isn't s*dding crack-jamming
Albie 2 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The crux is definately the move coming out of the cave - place your gear as far out as you can then don't stop moving until you've got to the ledge. This climb has a great variety of moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crux is definately the move coming out of the cave - place your gear as far out as you can then don't stop moving until you've got to the ledge. This climb has a great variety of moves.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 143
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 141
Votes cast 138
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Knight's Move

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Burbage North)