Rockfax Description
Majestic! Climb steeply past the jammed block (technical crux?) then trend right to a shallow groove and ledges below the soaring final crack. This is best climbed quickly after placing high runners. A final short steep wall completes this gem. A harder direct start is possible at E3 6a, up the crack and groove to the right, and is worth a couple of stars. © Rockfax
FAA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. Terry King 1968.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , London Wall Training List , Monopoly , The Millstone 'Streets' , World Graded List , 50 cracks to Squamish , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , 50 of the Best , Top 50 Peak Cracks , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Extreme 2018 , Michelle's crack ticklist , E is for Easy... Right? , DUMC Grit Gathering 2019 , Bugs training , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Proper Cracks UK , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , UK Crack Hitlist , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Fantastic Fiddly Cracks , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Tom's crack funtimes , The Festival Of Shite , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Crack Fueled Rampage , East and West Top 25 , A.P's summer: England and Wales expansion pack , UKC Guide to Dogging , 20 Good Gritstone E2s , Millstone HVS-E2 NIAD prep circuit
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JMarkW | 10 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The climbing is as good as the line. The mid-height traverse being excellant and airy. I found the jammed block tough and the final crack pretty straight forward with some delicate footwork. Mark | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The climbing is as good as the line. The mid-height traverse being excellant and airy. I found the jammed block tough and the final crack pretty straight forward with some delicate footwork. Mark |
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| Jon Greengrass | 10 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: climb easily up to the jammed though the foot holds are quite poor so placing gear is quite strenuous, there are good holds to pull around the jammed block but none above so just keep pedalling! the slab, traverse and arete to the ledge are a delight. I found the top crack desperate, I placed a high runner from the ledge and just went for it, result a 20 foot fall. I spent too long searching for solid finger locks in the crack and thought it much harder than the Asp, maybe its just my fingers?. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: climb easily up to the jammed though the foot holds are quite poor so placing gear is quite strenuous, there are good holds to pull around the jammed block but none above so just keep pedalling! the slab, traverse and arete to the ledge are a delight. I found the top crack desperate, I placed a high runner from the ledge and just went for it, result a 20 foot fall. I spent too long searching for solid finger locks in the crack and thought it much harder than the Asp, maybe its just my fingers?. |
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| Ropeboy | 2 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route, well protected cruxes and a nice long outing with a good rest on the ledge. Take plenty of wires and q/d's. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Good route, well protected cruxes and a nice long outing with a good rest on the ledge. Take plenty of wires and q/d's. |
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| Toby Dunn | 30 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: lots of solid locks in pin scars, and plenty of hands off rests do not a hard route make. Absolutely brilliant crack climbing though. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: lots of solid locks in pin scars, and plenty of hands off rests do not a hard route make. Absolutely brilliant crack climbing though. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Millstone Edge
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Zeus
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)