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22m.

Rockfax Description
Majestic! Climb steeply past the jammed block (technical crux?) then trend right to a shallow groove and ledges below the soaring final crack. This is best climbed quickly after placing high runners. A final short steep wall completes this gem. A harder direct start is possible at E3 6a, up the crack and groove to the right, and is worth a couple of stars. © Rockfax

FAA. Peter Biven, Trevor Peck 1956. FFA. Terry King 1968.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, London Wall Training List, Monopoly, The Millstone 'Streets', World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, 50 of the Best, Top 50 Peak Cracks, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Extreme 2018, Michelle's crack ticklist, E is for Easy... Right?, DUMC Grit Gathering 2019, Bugs training, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Proper Cracks UK, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
JMarkW 10 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The climbing is as good as the line. The mid-height traverse being excellant and airy. I found the jammed block tough and the final crack pretty straight forward with some delicate footwork. Mark
 
Show beta
βeta: The climbing is as good as the line. The mid-height traverse being excellant and airy. I found the jammed block tough and the final crack pretty straight forward with some delicate footwork. Mark
Jon Greengrass 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: climb easily up to the jammed though the foot holds are quite poor so placing gear is quite strenuous, there are good holds to pull around the jammed block but none above so just keep pedalling! the slab, traverse and arete to the ledge are a delight. I found the top crack desperate, I placed a high runner from the ledge and just went for it, result a 20 foot fall. I spent too long searching for solid finger locks in the crack and thought it much harder than the Asp, maybe its just my fingers?.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: climb easily up to the jammed though the foot holds are quite poor so placing gear is quite strenuous, there are good holds to pull around the jammed block but none above so just keep pedalling! the slab, traverse and arete to the ledge are a delight. I found the top crack desperate, I placed a high runner from the ledge and just went for it, result a 20 foot fall. I spent too long searching for solid finger locks in the crack and thought it much harder than the Asp, maybe its just my fingers?.
Iggy_B 2 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found the first few feet of it the hardest but perhaps I was just getting used to the size of the cracks, a nice route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found the first few feet of it the hardest but perhaps I was just getting used to the size of the cracks, a nice route.
Ropeboy 2 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, well protected cruxes and a nice long outing with a good rest on the ledge. Take plenty of wires and q/d's.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route, well protected cruxes and a nice long outing with a good rest on the ledge. Take plenty of wires and q/d's.
Toby Dunn 30 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: lots of solid locks in pin scars, and plenty of hands off rests do not a hard route make. Absolutely brilliant crack climbing though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: lots of solid locks in pin scars, and plenty of hands off rests do not a hard route make. Absolutely brilliant crack climbing though.

Logged Ascents

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308 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 181
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 175
Votes cast 166
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Sentinel

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Burbage North)