III, 800m, 5 - 6 hours. A route which varies greatly depending on conditions but always has crevasse risk and usually involves serac danger - good route finding and the ability to move quickly through dangerous sections are essential. The face is climbed by starting on the left, 100m right from the foot of the Triangle du Tacul.
1) Climb up 35 degree snow and cross a large crevasse, which varies in size and difficulty over the course of the year.
2) Depending on serac threat, either carry on straight up and move left once level with the end of the Chéré Couloir's technical pitches or drift gradually right to cross the face and gain the Tacul's northwest shoulder.
3) Having reached the shoulder, follow it up low-angled snow slopes and scramble easily up the summit rocks.
Descent - Reverse the route. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Normal route up the Tacul and the first bit of up-hill on the 3-Monts route up Mont Blanc. Be mindful of the seracs that guard the face and cause numerous accidents. The area is also prone to wind loading leading to big avalanches and too many fatalities! Some very large crevasses are also present.
Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range
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