IV, 450m. A great technical mixed climb that starts from the same amphitheatre as Pinocchio. In contrast, however, it can be climbed relatively dry but is better if there is a bit of ice on the crux.
1) 100m. Follow Pinnochio up the easy ground to the back of the amphitheatre - various belays here.
2) 5+, 30m. Climb the groove system at the back of the amphitheatre (to the right of Pinocchio).
3) 5+, 25m. Follow the groove system to a belay in a notch.
4) 6+, 50m. The crux is the steep left-hand slanting groove above and left of the belay. Pull through this passing pegs to where it lessens off. A big cam can help. Follow easier ground above to a belay.
5) 5, 40m. Follow an easier chimney up and left to a crest and the easier ground of Pinocchio.
6) Abseil off from here or follow Pinocchio to the finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Alpine IV 7, M7
This is the more or less straight up line to the right of Pinocchio. The crux pitch trends left a little bit generally it’s a more or less straight up groove system. Can be done in three long pitches (50-60m each) or split at intermediary belays. However these intermediary belays aren’t very comfortable.
Stevie Haston, Laurence Gouault 29/Apr/1995.
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