Climbing inspiration, supported by you

Climbing inspiration, supported by you

Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax.

Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax.

Loading Notifications...

Covid-19

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving.

Please proceed with caution though. More details.

UKClimbing Team

Alpine IV 7, M7
This is the more or less straight up line to the right of Pinocchio. The crux pitch trends left a little bit generally it’s a more or less straight up groove system. Can be done in three long pitches (50-60m each) or split at intermediary belays. However these intermediary belays aren’t very comfortable.

Stevie Haston, Laurence Gouault 29/Apr/1995

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 11 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Recommend not taking the sack up the crux pitch... it’s awkward enough as it is!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Recommend not taking the sack up the crux pitch... it’s awkward enough as it is!
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 12 Mar AltLd O/S
Tom Livingstone 8 Mar AltLd O/S Six pitches from the top of the snow slopes to the top of the 'wall' - where it joins Pinocchio at the top of the cliff. Great climbing. Seems like most people ab off after our third pitch (which is P6 or P7 if you count pitches from the schrund).
with Tim Exley
Six pitches from the top of the snow slopes to the top of the 'wall' - where it joins Pinocchio at the top of the cliff. Great climbing. Seems like most people ab off after our third pitch (which is P6 or P7 if you count pitches from the schrund).
with Tim Exley
Tom Seccombe ? Feb AltLd O/S
with Antoño
with Antoño
Matthew Glenn 20 Jan AltLd Led crux in 60m pitch
Led crux in 60m pitch
Misha u 11 Jan AltLd O/S Great route! Hardest I’ve had to try in the mountains so far. Scottish VII 7 seems fair overall. Decent conditions currently - there is ice and neve but the ice is fairly thin, lots of delicate tapping and pulling up on thin ice hooks. Rhys led from the schrund (easy) via the mixed step (delicate on thin ice) to the bottom of the first technical pitch (we moved together on the snow). I belayed about 10m down and right of the first technical pitch (several pegs and a wire with new tat). There is another in situ belay just below the pitch but it looked tatty. Rhys led the first technical pitch - 60m to the belay below the crux. This was pretty tenuous with thin ice, small feet and not many bomber hooks. Hard Scottish VI 7 or VII 7 on the day. I got the crux pitch. This had a sliver of ice on the left hand side of the steep groove. Hard to get gear - no cam 3 or 4 today! I got a couple or decent pieces low down, then the peg and a half in 10cm screw in the thickest bit of the ice. Pretty tenuous but it was all there - small feet, directional hooks on rock (the rock quality on the right hand side of the groove isn’t great) and thin ice placements. Not that physical if you use your feet well but had to take a hand off now and then. Felt comparable to a decent Scottish VII 7. I carried on past the intermediary peg belay (hanging in the groove so not very good) to a peg belay on a ledge just as the angle kicked back. Pretty much a 60m pitch. The 40m or so after the intermediary belay took a while as it’s a succession of steep steps on less than bomber placements and with some suspect rock. Solid Scottish VI 6 for that section. We didn’t bother with the last pitch as it looked easy and not very interesting, plus time was getting on. Got down in 4 abs - to the intermediary hanging belay then down to the snow slope in one, short downclimb to the belay there, next ab to tat around a huge spike below the mixed step and then last an over the schrund. Got a rope stuck on the ab down to the huge spike so I had to reclimb the mixed step and snow slope. Turned out an overhand knot had formed in one of the ropes, which we didn’t spot. That only cost us about 20 mins though. Got down shortly before dark, then a ski out mostly by head torch. Better snow than two days ago but still pretty rocky below Montenvers and on the JB Track. 8.35am Midi, 9.45am attack, 3.50pm top, 5.10pm back down after rope faff, 5.35pm started skiing, 7.45pm Cham. Climbed in ski boots - was fine.
Great route! Hardest I’ve had to try in the mountains so far. Scottish VII 7 seems fair overall. Decent conditions currently - there is ice and neve but the ice is fairly thin, lots of delicate tapping and pulling up on thin ice hooks. Rhys led from the schrund (easy) via the mixed step (delicate on thin ice) to the bottom of the first technical pitch (we moved together on the snow). I belayed about 10m down and right of the first technical pitch (several pegs and a wire with new tat). There is another in situ belay just below the pitch but it looked tatty. Rhys led the first technical pitch - 60m to the belay below the crux. This was pretty tenuous with thin ice, small feet and not many bomber hooks. Hard Scottish VI 7 or VII 7 on the day. I got the crux pitch. This had a sliver of ice on the left hand side of the steep groove. Hard to get gear - no cam 3 or 4 today! I got a couple or decent pieces low down, then the peg and a half in 10cm screw in the thickest bit of the ice. Pretty tenuous but it was all there - small feet, directional hooks on rock (the rock quality on the right hand side of the groove isn’t great) and thin ice placements. Not that physical if you use your feet well but had to take a hand off now and then. Felt comparable to a decent Scottish VII 7. I carried on past the intermediary peg belay (hanging in the groove so not very good) to a peg belay on a ledge just as the angle kicked back. Pretty much a 60m pitch. The 40m or so after the intermediary belay took a while as it’s a succession of steep steps on less than bomber placements and with some suspect rock. Solid Scottish VI 6 for that section. We didn’t bother with the last pitch as it looked easy and not very interesting, plus time was getting on. Got down in 4 abs - to the intermediary hanging belay then down to the snow slope in one, short downclimb to the belay there, next ab to tat around a huge spike below the mixed step and then last an over the schrund. Got a rope stuck on the ab down to the huge spike so I had to reclimb the mixed step and snow slope. Turned out an overhand knot had formed in one of the ropes, which we didn’t spot. That only cost us about 20 mins though. Got down shortly before dark, then a ski out mostly by head torch. Better snow than two days ago but still pretty rocky below Montenvers and on the JB Track. 8.35am Midi, 9.45am attack, 3.50pm top, 5.10pm back down after rope faff, 5.35pm started skiing, 7.45pm Cham. Climbed in ski boots - was fine.
Hidden 11 Jan AltLd
Hidden 8 Jan AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd dnf
bencoope 15 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Mar, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 26 Feb, 2017 AltLd
SeánM 2 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 15 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
thebigeasy 15 Mar, 2016 AltLd Climbed the difficulties in 3 big pitches (55m, 59m, 50m). Abbed the route and skied down in a white out (Probably harder than the climb!!).
with Will
Climbed the difficulties in 3 big pitches (55m, 59m, 50m). Abbed the route and skied down in a white out (Probably harder than the climb!!).
with Will
Alasdair Fulton 9 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S I'm going to feel it tomorrow...
with James Clapham
I'm going to feel it tomorrow...
with James Clapham
Ian Parnell 21 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Es Tressider
with Es Tressider
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High ED3
Mid ED3
Low ED3
High ED2
Mid ED2
Low ED2
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Retour a la Montagne

Grade: ED2 ***
(Envers des Aiguilles)