Climbs 9
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 154m a.s.l
Faces E

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Nigel Boothroyd leading pitch 4 of Via delle Punte (5c) on Sperone Est © Daimon Beail

Crag features

The magnificent pillar of Sperone Est rises above the coastal plain giving climbing virtually from sea level to the summit of Monte Monaco. As the tallest continuous bit of rock in the area it has attracted climbers and seen its fair share of epic first ascents dating back to the early 80s. In more recent years a number of (mainly bolted) routes have been developed allowing climbers easier access to this superb and striking pillar.

The two main attractions are the brilliant routes of Via delle Punte (5c) and Sogni d'Oro (6b) which are two of the best long routes in the area. They are predominantly bolted, although a small trad rack and a few slings may be found useful by many climbers. Route finding isn't always obvious, especially on the easier pitches. These two routes can easily be done in a day with an easy descent, but it is worth carrying a head torch and extra clothes in case things go wrong.

Also described here are five other routes in the more 'adventurous' category. These should only be attempted by experienced multi-pitch climbers with a full rack and twin 50m ropes in case abseil retreat is required. Other old routes on this wall exist - they are not described but may also have fixed gear.

Approach notes

Go around the headland away from San Vito Lo Capo and head south following the eastern faces of Monte Monaco along the SP63. Continue approximately 1.4km beyond the junction of 'Strada Comunale Mondello' to a concreted track below the pillar of Sperone Est. There is a small parking spot just after this on the left. Please park considerately and do not block the entrance to any drives or potential property entrances.

From the parking, go back down the road and turn up the track towards the pillar. Go through a gap in the wall onto a parallel residence road and follow this to its end. Continue up onto the hill side, then head diagonally right up the slope to the fence corner. Don't go uphill here, instead follow the path which runs parallel to the top fence across two defunct walls. After the second wall the path begins to rise slightly. Head up hill zig-zagging past the occasional cairn to reach the base of the cliff.

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