Rockfax Description
An excellent adventure which has been called 'Via Fratelli Titt'. The version here takes on the full height of the wall by linking into Sogni d'Oro. This is probably not the original line.
The climbing is straightforward but the bolts are spaced and some may find a small rack helpful. It can be climbed on twin 50m ropes or a single 80m rope and abseiled from pitch 6. Abseil descent from above there is technically possible, but extremely awkward and prone to epics. Start about 20m left of a distinct pillar at a waist-level bolt in the wall.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb slightly rightwards on great rock and holds to a belay in a slight bay.
2) 4b, 15m. Go direct then up left to a ledge.
3) 4a, 35m. Easy ground leads up right past some spaced bolts to a ledge. Continue to another ledge a little higher and belay.
4) 5c, 20m. Move up and left, then make tricky moves left (bold to second). Continue up leftwards to a belay in a corner.
5) 5a, 40m. Climb a groove and rib then head up right to a big open corner. Move up the left wall to a great belay in a small cave.
6) 4b, 40m. Make a delightful traverse left on a rounded ledge to a gully. Easy and more broken rock leads upwards to a spacious ledge.
Descent from here - Make 3x40m abseils starting down pitches 6 and 5 then direct down to a ledge area where you can scramble off rightwards (looking out) and walk back round to the foot of the climb.
7) 4c, 45m. A scrappy connecting pitch to the central pillar which is easy to get a bit lost on. Follow threads and bolts up rightwards, past one possible belay to a ledge. Make a steep pull up from the ledge to a gully which leads to the summit of the central pillar and junction with Sogni d'Oro. There is a single-ring belay a little higher.
8) 4a, 45m. Climb up to another belay then pull up right and follow the left side of the rib on sharp rock.
9) 5a, 30m. Pull right to a steep section on the nose of the rib and climb this on razor holds to a bulge. Make an thrutchy pull round this to a belay.
10) 4b, 38m. Move left then follow easy ground past a mix of fixed gear.
11) 4c, 35m. Go up leftwards to follow a couple of grooves.
12) 4b, 40m. Move up to easy ground then a steeper rib which leads to a big ledge and the last belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An excellent adventure taking on the full height of the wall which has been called 'Via Fratelli Titt'. The climbing is straightforward but the bolts are spaced and some may find a small rack helpful. It can be climbed on twin 50m ropes or a single 80m rope and abseiled from pitch 6. Abseil descent from above there is technically possible, but would be extremely awkward and prone to epics. Start about 20m left of a distinct pillar at a waist-level bolt in the wall.
1. 4b, 28m. Climb slightly right wards on great rock and holds to a belay in a slight bay.
2. 4b, 15m. Go direct then up left to a ledge.
3. 4a, 35m. Easy ground leads up right past some spaced bolts to a ledge. Continue to another ledge a little higher and belay.
4. 5c, 25m. Move up and left then make tricky move left (bold to second). Continue up leftwards to a belay in a corner.
5. 5a, 40m. Climb a groove and rib then up right to a big open corner. Move up the left wall to a great belay in a small cave.
6. 4b, 40m. Make a delightful traverse left on a rounded ledge to a gully. Easy and more broken rock leads upwards to a spacious ledge.
Descent from here - Make 3x40m abseils initially down pitches 6 and 5 then direct down to a ledge area where you can scramble off right wards (looking out) and walk back round to the foot of the climb.
7. 4c, 45m. A scrappy connecting pitch to the central pillar. Follow threads and bolts up rightwards past one possible belay, to a ledge. Make a steep pull up from the ledge to a gully that leads to the summit of the central pillar and junction with Sogni d’oro. There is a single ring belay a little higher.
8. 4a, 45m. Climb up to another belay then pull up right and follow the left side of the rib on sharp rock.
9. 5a, 30m. Pull right to a steep section on the nose of the rib and climb this on razor holds to a bulge. Make an thrutchy pull round this to a belay.
10. 4b, 38m. Move left then follow easy ground past a mix of fixed gear.
11. 4c, 35m. Go up leftwards to follow a couple of grooves.
12. 4b, 40m. Move up to easy ground then a steeper rib which leads to a big ledge and the last belay.
Descent - Walk easily up to the summit plateau. Head rightwards for the full summit tick by the cross and a great view of San Vito. The track leads easily back down from here to the road keeping left at any junction.
Scott Titt, Jim Titt (bolting on lead to pitch 6) 05/Jan/2012.
Ticklists
San Vito Lo Capo Multi-Pitch , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , ROCKFAX: Sicily 2021 - Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ian1001 | 19 Feb |
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βeta: Great route would recommend taking some gear for the top pitches as bolting is a little spaced -fine if your comfortable at this grade though | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route would recommend taking some gear for the top pitches as bolting is a little spaced -fine if your comfortable at this grade though |
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| MikeWilliamson | 25 Dec, 2022 |
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βeta: An excellent way to spend Xmas day. Started climbing at sunrise (7:30am), topped out at sunset (5pm). Not bad going for a party of three! Used a few cams to take the edge off some of the longer runouts on the upper pitches. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: An excellent way to spend Xmas day. Started climbing at sunrise (7:30am), topped out at sunset (5pm). Not bad going for a party of three! Used a few cams to take the edge off some of the longer runouts on the upper pitches. |
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| Edshakey | 12 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Adding to the available info as we tried to find out as much as possible in advance: Possible on a 60m single with 15 draws - it rules out the option of an easy retreat after beginning p3 but if you're comfortable at the grade, commit, and wake up early, it's straightforward enough in a day so no reason why not. Disclaimer: you will obviously be fully committed this way! We had a single rack of nuts and used them 2/3 times total - most of the bolting is fine around the tricky sections and only runout when it gets easy. So would be fairly confident setting off with no extra gear. A few slings to extend bolts would be useful, the rope drag on pitches after 6 was very bad at times. We didn't have any, and managed, but was a massive pain. Routefinding shouldn't present any issues, the next bit of fixed gear is almost always visible from the previous one, and when coupled with a read of the route and check the topo, it's pretty clear the whole way. A calm day with no wind is very useful for communication (especially with rope drag!), and equally overcast would be good. The sun is on the wall from sunrise until early afternoon, at which point it all becomes shaded. Can be very hot, bring plenty of water, suncream, etc, and also layers for the shade and inevitable nightime descent - headtorch is a given! The cave at the top of p5 only just fits 2 people. We tried - it's tight. Most of all, enjoy! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Adding to the available info as we tried to find out as much as possible in advance: Possible on a 60m single with 15 draws - it rules out the option of an easy retreat after beginning p3 but if you're comfortable at the grade, commit, and wake up early, it's straightforward enough in a day so no reason why not. Disclaimer: you will obviously be fully committed this way! We had a single rack of nuts and used them 2/3 times total - most of the bolting is fine around the tricky sections and only runout when it gets easy. So would be fairly confident setting off with no extra gear. A few slings to extend bolts would be useful, the rope drag on pitches after 6 was very bad at times. We didn't have any, and managed, but was a massive pain. Routefinding shouldn't present any issues, the next bit of fixed gear is almost always visible from the previous one, and when coupled with a read of the route and check the topo, it's pretty clear the whole way. A calm day with no wind is very useful for communication (especially with rope drag!), and equally overcast would be good. The sun is on the wall from sunrise until early afternoon, at which point it all becomes shaded. Can be very hot, bring plenty of water, suncream, etc, and also layers for the shade and inevitable nightime descent - headtorch is a given! The cave at the top of p5 only just fits 2 people. We tried - it's tight. Most of all, enjoy! |
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| jing | 6 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can vouch for the accuracy of the description here. Well bolted (if spaced) and a very worthwhile adventurous route on generally solid rock. No need for trad gear for the 12 pitches. We climbed on a 70m single and linked the first 2 pitches (all the other pitches are long enough and/or hard to link). But I can see the point of using two ropes for extra safety margin if retreat is needed. I strongly recommend picking a nice day, getting up early and shooting for the top rather than planning to ab down after 6 pitches. It seems to be a popular route (we climbed this mid-week and there were two teams behind us) so I wouldn't fancy either abseiling over other climbers or having another team abseiling over me. The beginning of the route is just behind a big olive tree and has a very faint V etched next to the first bolt just a meter above ground. A wobbly refrigerator sized block on pitch 5 (I didn't find it but my partner did). Some small loose rocks on higher belay ledges as you would find on a climb like this. Be careful not to dislodge them especially if there are teams below. Watch out for rope drag on pitch 7. Probably worth skipping (if confident) or extending some of the bolts. Descent takes about 1 hour to the parking. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Can vouch for the accuracy of the description here. Well bolted (if spaced) and a very worthwhile adventurous route on generally solid rock. No need for trad gear for the 12 pitches. We climbed on a 70m single and linked the first 2 pitches (all the other pitches are long enough and/or hard to link). But I can see the point of using two ropes for extra safety margin if retreat is needed. I strongly recommend picking a nice day, getting up early and shooting for the top rather than planning to ab down after 6 pitches. It seems to be a popular route (we climbed this mid-week and there were two teams behind us) so I wouldn't fancy either abseiling over other climbers or having another team abseiling over me. The beginning of the route is just behind a big olive tree and has a very faint V etched next to the first bolt just a meter above ground. A wobbly refrigerator sized block on pitch 5 (I didn't find it but my partner did). Some small loose rocks on higher belay ledges as you would find on a climb like this. Be careful not to dislodge them especially if there are teams below. Watch out for rope drag on pitch 7. Probably worth skipping (if confident) or extending some of the bolts. Descent takes about 1 hour to the parking. |
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| GOS | 2 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The parking point is the left track of 2 parallel tracks just by house 112 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The parking point is the left track of 2 parallel tracks just by house 112 |
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| Alan James - Rockfax | 5 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Full description above for fully bolted version which now goes all the way to the summit. Comments below about needing 55m twin ropes for abseil are not correct, it can be done with 3x40m abseils from the top of pitch 6. Descent from above pitch 6 is likely to result in an epic due to the line, sharp rock and loose rock. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Full description above for fully bolted version which now goes all the way to the summit. Comments below about needing 55m twin ropes for abseil are not correct, it can be done with 3x40m abseils from the top of pitch 6. Descent from above pitch 6 is likely to result in an epic due to the line, sharp rock and loose rock. |
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| Martin Bennett | 22 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Since several lines begin near it it's perhaps worth pointing out that the correct start is exactly where you arrive at the cliff base if you've found and followed the cairns through shrubs, broken walls and bits if scree. It's well left of a 50m pillar leaning against the face, just left of a line of threads and bolts, and has a ground anchor bolt at 3 feet off the deck. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Since several lines begin near it it's perhaps worth pointing out that the correct start is exactly where you arrive at the cliff base if you've found and followed the cairns through shrubs, broken walls and bits if scree. It's well left of a 50m pillar leaning against the face, just left of a line of threads and bolts, and has a ground anchor bolt at 3 feet off the deck. |
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Still Pulling
Grade: 5c ***
(Rocca di Cerriolo)