UKC

402m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent adventure which has been called 'Via Fratelli Titt'. The version here takes on the full height of the wall by linking into Sogni d'Oro. This is probably not the original line.
The climbing is straightforward but the bolts are spaced and some may find a small rack helpful. It can be climbed on twin 50m ropes or a single 80m rope and abseiled from pitch 6. Abseil descent from above there is technically possible, but extremely awkward and prone to epics. Start about 20m left of a distinct pillar at a waist-level bolt in the wall.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb slightly rightwards on great rock and holds to a belay in a slight bay.
2) 4b, 15m. Go direct then up left to a ledge.
3) 4a, 35m. Easy ground leads up right past some spaced bolts to a ledge. Continue to another ledge a little higher and belay.
4) 5c, 20m. Move up and left, then make tricky moves left (bold to second). Continue up leftwards to a belay in a corner.
5) 5a, 40m. Climb a groove and rib then head up right to a big open corner. Move up the left wall to a great belay in a small cave.
6) 4b, 40m. Make a delightful traverse left on a rounded ledge to a gully. Easy and more broken rock leads upwards to a spacious ledge.
Descent from here - Make 3x40m abseils starting down pitches 6 and 5 then direct down to a ledge area where you can scramble off rightwards (looking out) and walk back round to the foot of the climb.
7) 4c, 45m. A scrappy connecting pitch to the central pillar which is easy to get a bit lost on. Follow threads and bolts up rightwards, past one possible belay to a ledge. Make a steep pull up from the ledge to a gully which leads to the summit of the central pillar and junction with Sogni d'Oro. There is a single-ring belay a little higher.
8) 4a, 45m. Climb up to another belay then pull up right and follow the left side of the rib on sharp rock.
9) 5a, 30m. Pull right to a steep section on the nose of the rib and climb this on razor holds to a bulge. Make an thrutchy pull round this to a belay.
10) 4b, 38m. Move left then follow easy ground past a mix of fixed gear.
11) 4c, 35m. Go up leftwards to follow a couple of grooves.
12) 4b, 40m. Move up to easy ground then a steeper rib which leads to a big ledge and the last belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent adventure taking on the full height of the wall which has been called 'Via Fratelli Titt'. The climbing is straightforward but the bolts are spaced and some may find a small rack helpful. It can be climbed on twin 50m ropes or a single 80m rope and abseiled from pitch 6. Abseil descent from above there is technically possible, but would be extremely awkward and prone to epics. Start about 20m left of a distinct pillar at a waist-level bolt in the wall.
1. 4b, 28m. Climb slightly right wards on great rock and holds to a belay in a slight bay.
2. 4b, 15m. Go direct then up left to a ledge.
3. 4a, 35m. Easy ground leads up right past some spaced bolts to a ledge. Continue to another ledge a little higher and belay.
4. 5c, 25m. Move up and left then make tricky move left (bold to second). Continue up leftwards to a belay in a corner.
5. 5a, 40m. Climb a groove and rib then up right to a big open corner. Move up the left wall to a great belay in a small cave.
6. 4b, 40m. Make a delightful traverse left on a rounded ledge to a gully. Easy and more broken rock leads upwards to a spacious ledge.
Descent from here - Make 3x40m abseils initially down pitches 6 and 5 then direct down to a ledge area where you can scramble off right wards (looking out) and walk back round to the foot of the climb.
7. 4c, 45m. A scrappy connecting pitch to the central pillar. Follow threads and bolts up rightwards past one possible belay, to a ledge. Make a steep pull up from the ledge to a gully that leads to the summit of the central pillar and junction with Sogni d’oro. There is a single ring belay a little higher.
8. 4a, 45m. Climb up to another belay then pull up right and follow the left side of the rib on sharp rock.
9. 5a, 30m. Pull right to a steep section on the nose of the rib and climb this on razor holds to a bulge. Make an thrutchy pull round this to a belay.
10. 4b, 38m. Move left then follow easy ground past a mix of fixed gear.
11. 4c, 35m. Go up leftwards to follow a couple of grooves.
12. 4b, 40m. Move up to easy ground then a steeper rib which leads to a big ledge and the last belay.
Descent - Walk easily up to the summit plateau. Head rightwards for the full summit tick by the cross and a great view of San Vito. The track leads easily back down from here to the road keeping left at any junction.

Scott Titt, Jim Titt (bolting on lead to pitch 6) 05/Jan/2012.

Ticklists

San Vito Lo Capo Multi-Pitch , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , ROCKFAX: Sicily 2021 - Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
David WW 16 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, we did it last week as 2 pairs of 2, taking 8 hours up and 1 hour down. The start of the route was easy to find as per the description and each pitch was also easy to follow, seeing the next piece of gear from the last. Although we carried a trad rack, we didn't use it. The in-situ bolts and slings were sufficient for us. One team had twin 60s and other 1 sport 70m. We were happy with either rope combination. Beware there are large differences in grades and route length between guidebooks. eg Rockfax shows 12 pitches & 400m vertical height, the German guide has 14 pitches totalling 455m route length (i.e. similar to RF) however the Sicilian guide shows 18 pitches totalling 600m+ (which seems a long way out). Regarding grades RF has 9 pitches 4a/b/c and 3 pitches of grade 5. The German guide has 9 pitches of 5a/5b/5c. The Sicilian guide has 7 pitches of grade 5. Unusually I think the RF has graded this route softly, however it is not as stiff has the German guide suggests. I would grade it somewhere in between. The route is nicely sustained, maintaining interest on all pitches right to the top.
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route, we did it last week as 2 pairs of 2, taking 8 hours up and 1 hour down. The start of the route was easy to find as per the description and each pitch was also easy to follow, seeing the next piece of gear from the last. Although we carried a trad rack, we didn't use it. The in-situ bolts and slings were sufficient for us. One team had twin 60s and other 1 sport 70m. We were happy with either rope combination. Beware there are large differences in grades and route length between guidebooks. eg Rockfax shows 12 pitches & 400m vertical height, the German guide has 14 pitches totalling 455m route length (i.e. similar to RF) however the Sicilian guide shows 18 pitches totalling 600m+ (which seems a long way out). Regarding grades RF has 9 pitches 4a/b/c and 3 pitches of grade 5. The German guide has 9 pitches of 5a/5b/5c. The Sicilian guide has 7 pitches of grade 5. Unusually I think the RF has graded this route softly, however it is not as stiff has the German guide suggests. I would grade it somewhere in between. The route is nicely sustained, maintaining interest on all pitches right to the top.
katharinemcb 13 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Incredibly fun route, an endurance test both physically and mentally for me. I would argue it has been graded too soft and some of the routes are harder than UKC suggests. I have found this across a lot of the San Vito climbing. However, I am perhaps still inexperienced. We used a mixture of the German guide (as recommended by a previous comment) and Rockfax to assess the route prior to setting off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Incredibly fun route, an endurance test both physically and mentally for me. I would argue it has been graded too soft and some of the routes are harder than UKC suggests. I have found this across a lot of the San Vito climbing. However, I am perhaps still inexperienced. We used a mixture of the German guide (as recommended by a previous comment) and Rockfax to assess the route prior to setting off.
Ian1001 19 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great route would recommend taking some gear for the top pitches as bolting is a little spaced -fine if your comfortable at this grade though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route would recommend taking some gear for the top pitches as bolting is a little spaced -fine if your comfortable at this grade though
MikeWilliamson 25 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent way to spend Xmas day. Started climbing at sunrise (7:30am), topped out at sunset (5pm). Not bad going for a party of three! Used a few cams to take the edge off some of the longer runouts on the upper pitches.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent way to spend Xmas day. Started climbing at sunrise (7:30am), topped out at sunset (5pm). Not bad going for a party of three! Used a few cams to take the edge off some of the longer runouts on the upper pitches.
Edshakey 12 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Adding to the available info as we tried to find out as much as possible in advance: Possible on a 60m single with 15 draws - it rules out the option of an easy retreat after beginning p3 but if you're comfortable at the grade, commit, and wake up early, it's straightforward enough in a day so no reason why not. Disclaimer: you will obviously be fully committed this way! We had a single rack of nuts and used them 2/3 times total - most of the bolting is fine around the tricky sections and only runout when it gets easy. So would be fairly confident setting off with no extra gear. A few slings to extend bolts would be useful, the rope drag on pitches after 6 was very bad at times. We didn't have any, and managed, but was a massive pain. Routefinding shouldn't present any issues, the next bit of fixed gear is almost always visible from the previous one, and when coupled with a read of the route and check the topo, it's pretty clear the whole way. A calm day with no wind is very useful for communication (especially with rope drag!), and equally overcast would be good. The sun is on the wall from sunrise until early afternoon, at which point it all becomes shaded. Can be very hot, bring plenty of water, suncream, etc, and also layers for the shade and inevitable nightime descent - headtorch is a given! The cave at the top of p5 only just fits 2 people. We tried - it's tight. Most of all, enjoy!
Show beta
βeta: Adding to the available info as we tried to find out as much as possible in advance: Possible on a 60m single with 15 draws - it rules out the option of an easy retreat after beginning p3 but if you're comfortable at the grade, commit, and wake up early, it's straightforward enough in a day so no reason why not. Disclaimer: you will obviously be fully committed this way! We had a single rack of nuts and used them 2/3 times total - most of the bolting is fine around the tricky sections and only runout when it gets easy. So would be fairly confident setting off with no extra gear. A few slings to extend bolts would be useful, the rope drag on pitches after 6 was very bad at times. We didn't have any, and managed, but was a massive pain. Routefinding shouldn't present any issues, the next bit of fixed gear is almost always visible from the previous one, and when coupled with a read of the route and check the topo, it's pretty clear the whole way. A calm day with no wind is very useful for communication (especially with rope drag!), and equally overcast would be good. The sun is on the wall from sunrise until early afternoon, at which point it all becomes shaded. Can be very hot, bring plenty of water, suncream, etc, and also layers for the shade and inevitable nightime descent - headtorch is a given! The cave at the top of p5 only just fits 2 people. We tried - it's tight. Most of all, enjoy!
jing 6 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Can vouch for the accuracy of the description here. Well bolted (if spaced) and a very worthwhile adventurous route on generally solid rock. No need for trad gear for the 12 pitches. We climbed on a 70m single and linked the first 2 pitches (all the other pitches are long enough and/or hard to link). But I can see the point of using two ropes for extra safety margin if retreat is needed. I strongly recommend picking a nice day, getting up early and shooting for the top rather than planning to ab down after 6 pitches. It seems to be a popular route (we climbed this mid-week and there were two teams behind us) so I wouldn't fancy either abseiling over other climbers or having another team abseiling over me. The beginning of the route is just behind a big olive tree and has a very faint V etched next to the first bolt just a meter above ground. A wobbly refrigerator sized block on pitch 5 (I didn't find it but my partner did). Some small loose rocks on higher belay ledges as you would find on a climb like this. Be careful not to dislodge them especially if there are teams below. Watch out for rope drag on pitch 7. Probably worth skipping (if confident) or extending some of the bolts. Descent takes about 1 hour to the parking.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can vouch for the accuracy of the description here. Well bolted (if spaced) and a very worthwhile adventurous route on generally solid rock. No need for trad gear for the 12 pitches. We climbed on a 70m single and linked the first 2 pitches (all the other pitches are long enough and/or hard to link). But I can see the point of using two ropes for extra safety margin if retreat is needed. I strongly recommend picking a nice day, getting up early and shooting for the top rather than planning to ab down after 6 pitches. It seems to be a popular route (we climbed this mid-week and there were two teams behind us) so I wouldn't fancy either abseiling over other climbers or having another team abseiling over me. The beginning of the route is just behind a big olive tree and has a very faint V etched next to the first bolt just a meter above ground. A wobbly refrigerator sized block on pitch 5 (I didn't find it but my partner did). Some small loose rocks on higher belay ledges as you would find on a climb like this. Be careful not to dislodge them especially if there are teams below. Watch out for rope drag on pitch 7. Probably worth skipping (if confident) or extending some of the bolts. Descent takes about 1 hour to the parking.
GOS 2 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The parking point is the left track of 2 parallel tracks just by house 112
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The parking point is the left track of 2 parallel tracks just by house 112
Alan James - Rockfax 5 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Full description above for fully bolted version which now goes all the way to the summit. Comments below about needing 55m twin ropes for abseil are not correct, it can be done with 3x40m abseils from the top of pitch 6. Descent from above pitch 6 is likely to result in an epic due to the line, sharp rock and loose rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Full description above for fully bolted version which now goes all the way to the summit. Comments below about needing 55m twin ropes for abseil are not correct, it can be done with 3x40m abseils from the top of pitch 6. Descent from above pitch 6 is likely to result in an epic due to the line, sharp rock and loose rock.
Martin Bennett 22 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Since several lines begin near it it's perhaps worth pointing out that the correct start is exactly where you arrive at the cliff base if you've found and followed the cairns through shrubs, broken walls and bits if scree. It's well left of a 50m pillar leaning against the face, just left of a line of threads and bolts, and has a ground anchor bolt at 3 feet off the deck.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Since several lines begin near it it's perhaps worth pointing out that the correct start is exactly where you arrive at the cliff base if you've found and followed the cairns through shrubs, broken walls and bits if scree. It's well left of a 50m pillar leaning against the face, just left of a line of threads and bolts, and has a ground anchor bolt at 3 feet off the deck.

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