Climbs 27
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 71m a.s.l
Faces S

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View from the cave © Heike

Crag features

Morro Falqui is the imposing headland to the north of the beaches and deep water soloing north of Moraira. Easy access and a sunny setting should ensure that you have a good day out here. The routes cover a good spread of grades from 4+ to 6c and the superb 6-pitch Sonjannika in particular should prove to be very popular.

Approach notes

From Teulada, Javea or Moraira, take the road to Benitaxtell. On the eastern edge of Benitaxtell, turn right towards Urbanisacion 'Cumbre del Sol'. From the point you enter the complex, by the information centre, follow the road for 3.8km as it winds up into the urbanisation to reach a large supermarket on the left. 

Turn left about 100m past the supermarket, just after a pharmacy. Turn right at the second junction - a roundabout marked 'Pueblo de la Paz' Follow this street; at a 4-way junction, take the 2nd road from the right (ie. roughly straight on). At a sharp (hairpin) left bend, drive straight on down a short cul-de-sac between two houses, with open land at the end - park here. From the parking, take a narrow track but leave this after 10m and head right, parallel to the back wall of the houses, heading for the right of a small knoll. Follow the path that becomes visible as soon as you start going downhill. To gain the routes from above, head towards a low point in the cliff top.

Nicely sheltered and shaded in the summer morning. The approach is more of a scramble than a walk. Watch out for some extremely sharp rock. Rappelling is a must here as the setup of the chains won't allow a lower off. There appears to be an undocumented bolted climb to the right of Hagen and the Test Tube Monkeys, would love to know if anyone has sent it. Overall a nice quiet place with great views and some excellent lower grade climbs.
Jack_T - 23/Jul/20
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