UKC

Climbs 64
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 359m a.s.l
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Conan the Librarian on Mother Cap, one very early morning before work. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

The impressive square monolith of Mother Cap can be clearly seen from some distance and is usually very busy, although not with boulderers. The bouldering on its walls tends to be high and rounded but there are some decent problems and it combines well with a circuit at Owler Tor. Conan the Librarian is a classic and the landings are good so you can pad out the falls if required. It is very exposed to the weather but that does mean that it isn't green and will dry quickly.

Approach notes

The outcrops are situated near the Surprise View, on the moor behind Millstone Quarry. Park at the large Surprise View car park then leave this northwards by any one of several narrow paths. These climb steeply through the woods and past the odd quarry before popping out onto the moor. 

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
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Climbs at this crag

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