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Climbs 106
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 902m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

All of these cliffs are located on the rocky hillside overlooking Moustiers-Sainte-Marie. The majority face south and are in the sun all day, so they are excellent winter locations. La Grotte du Monstre/FFF faces nnw, is in the shade for most of the day and is ideal in summer.

Most of the rock is compact orange limestone with pockets, edges and occassional tufas. The grades are tough and the climbing is pretty fierce but also very enjoyable.

Detailed info and phototopos (including approach instructions) for Courchon are available at (http://chadurif.fr/topos/27/courchon)

Approach notes

Courchon: Head west 5km from Moustiers towards Riez. A couple of hundred metres after the hairpin bends, turn right heading towards Venascle. Follow this road up hill for 10.5 km (passing the parapente centre and a campsite) to a rocky track on the right on the brow of the hill. Take this, turning left after 50 metres. Follow the bumpy dirt track for as long as you think your car can take it, most people park at a flat spot at an obvious junction (please don't block the track) and walk the last km. Follow the track on foot to it's end on top of the spur overlooking Moustiers and the Lac St Croix (possible to drive to here). You approach the crag from above and can't see it until fairly late on. The path goes down rightwards from a cairn to a scramble down to the cliff via some fixed ropes. Time: 5 mins or 20 mins from the junction.

Brumisateur: From the main car park at the top of the village of Moustiers follow the nature trail (approx. middle level of car park) that contours around the hillside easily (heading east) then follow a faint path up to the cliff. Time: 20 mins. Long routes, 80 metre rope needed.

Baume Blanc and La Grotte du Monstre/FFF: Take the road from Moustiers turning left at the roundabout for La Palud. Park in the trees on the bend after the picnic tables. From there a Grand Randonee footpath goes steeply up hill. Follow this to some cairns on the left after about 20 mins. A very faint path leads up hill towards the huge cave, bear left for Baume Blanc. Time: 40 mins! Very long routes at La Grotte du Monstre, 80 metre rope needed.

No Access Issues

Much of the climbing season coincides with the hunting season so please be very respectful and be on your best behaviour. Park sensibly and don't leave any mess (the whole place is very wild, unspoilt and clean). Overnight camping in your van has recently become illegal, so go and park up somewhere else and don't risk climbing being banned in the future (eg. down in Moustiers or the nearby campsite when it's open).

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Climbs at this crag

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