Restricted Access
This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal Climbing Restriction from and including 'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills. Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'. Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall. If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.
2022 update - Please check the actual location of nests by looking over the edge from above 'Blowing in the Wind'. If the Razorbills are using the ledges right next to Diedre Sud, please do not climb 'Heart of Darkness' or 'Snozwanger' or 'Blowing in the Wind'.
Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.
Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.
Rockfax Description
A traverse line 3m below Heart of Darkness gives excellent sustained climbing. Start as for Heart of Darkness.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb up to the break and traverse leftwards to the belay on Razorbill. Downclimb 2m from the break to belay on the large ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Continue along the break to belay on Blowin' in the Wind. Option to escape from here, or up Chimes.
3) 5b. Various options exist. Finish up Blowin' in the Wind or Chimes of Freedom both of which give 3-star finishes. The original route continued along the break for another pitch of traversing, which is good, but it leaves a poor vertical pitch to escape from past Seaside Salamander. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A traverse line 3m below Heart of Darkness. Excellent sustained climbing which gets surprisingly little attention. Start from the same point as you would for Heart of Darkness.
1. First pitch is about 35m and goes to the belay on Razorbill - downclimb 2m from the break to belay on the large ledge.
2. Back up to the break, and onwards to belay somewhere around Blowin' in the Wind. Option to escape from here, or up Chimes.
3. Onwards again for around 20m, until you can start a rising traverse for about 8m up and left to a ledge on the edge of the choss chute.
4. Sketchy loose rock with little protection to the top-out. Suggest leaving an ab-rope in place.
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Rock Idol Direct Finish
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)