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Climbs 118
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

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Pembroke Magic. © AJCW

Crag features

Mowing Word is one of those spots which can elude climbers year after year - many is the time I've heard folk say “must get that one done tomorrow/next week/this season”, only to reappear the following year with nothing bagged in the interim. Its long-standing history of being bird restricted has obviously added to this impression. Now that the main crag is free from any restriction, and Mowing Word can be climbed on all year round, it should see much more attention. Devote your energy to getting started on such west-facing beauties as the amazing Diedre Sud (HS), the multi-extravaganza Heart of Darkness (HVS), Snozwanger (E1), Flax of Dream (E2) and Chimes of Freedom (E2). And if that's not enough to drag you back time and time again … you should take a trip round onto the East Face and have a go at the terrible trio of steep crack climbs found there.

Approach notes

Approach from Broad Haven beach car park or Stackpole car park in 30 mins.

Access Advice

This crag is not in the MoD range. Previously the whole west side of the crag was subject to seasonal restrictions but as of July 2011, following detailed negotiations with the National Trust and the Countryside Council for Wales, the seasonal restrictions were removed. However birds have recently returned to nest on the right wall of Diedre Sud so a smaller restricted zone has been introduced.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seasonal Climbing Restriction are in force for 2020  from and including  'Diedre Sud' to 'Flax of a Dream' due to nesting Razorbills.  Birds are nesting in the upper break running right from 'Diedre Sud'.  Look for cliff top signs but be prepared to adjust plans: 'Blowin' in the Wind' and 'Snozwanger' can be accessd direct by abseil down the wall.  If climbing 'Heart of Darkness', please finish up 'Blowin' in the Wind' or 'Snozwanger', not 'New Morning' or 'Diedre Sud'.

Signs will be in place at the cliff for any updates.

Also, due to the possibility of nesting choughs in the dank cave left of the route 'Fools Rush In', please avoid hanging around near this cave.  ALL RESTRICTIONS LIFTED 22 JULY (FOR 2020)

 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
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Climbs at this crag

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