UKC

Climbs 9
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 21m a.s.l
Faces N

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The top pitch of Krakatoa at Needle Rocks, North Pembs © henry castle

Crag features

An adventurous recently developed crag with a few very strong lines. Some lichen and loose rock but very manageable and barely detracts from the quality of the routes.

Actually the crag was first explored by myself and Pete Brailsford in 1982. After an abortive attempt on the stack we climbed the east-facing chimney/corner on the headland itself and named it St Michael, graded VS 4c.

Paul Donnithorne took over exploration of the crag and climbed a couple of routes on the seaward face of the headland and the stack itself.

Access Advice

Some good exciting routes from HVS to E5 but needing a bit of traffic to clean them up. North-facing sea cliff plus one route on the sea stack. Abseil descent.

There is a seasonal restriction for cliff nesting birds 1st March to 1st August and the area is also used by seals for pupping in the autumn - please minimise disturbance - do not climb near NE side of crag if seals in the cove immediately east of the crag.

Access is sensitive here so please keep a low profile.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing 1st March - 1st August inclusive. There is also a problem with general access at present as the landowner is not happy with climbing taking place on this cliff. Negotiations are ongoing. Please keep a low profile and do not place any fixed gear including stakes, pegs or slings.

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Climbs at this crag

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