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Climbs 152
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 422m a.s.l
Faces E

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Charlie's overhang. Newstones. © Mike W

Crag features

Two crags which are always treated as one, mainly because you have to walk past the Newstones to get to the Baldstones. They have a similar character being lumps of rock rather than edges - a little too tall for bouldering in parts, but also mostly too small for routes. The lovely location and easy access means that they are quite popular.

The crags are mostly east-facing getting morning sun. They are exposed to the wind but tend not to get too green. The rock can be gritty after rain.

Approach notes

There is parking for half a dozen cars on the roadside by the cottage. Take the track to the right of the cottages to arrive at the obvious nose of Charlie's Overhang, the first buttress of the Newstones, in about 5 mins. To reach Baldstones continue along the base of the crag to its end and a stile. Cross this, then follow the ridge downhill along the line of the collapsed drystone wall to reach the cliff which remains hidden until one is quite close.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
I was here last Sunday (5th July) and the lady who owns the house was asking climbers and walkers to leave her property. In her words, Charlies Overhang and Top Block are on her land. Her family were visiting and she didn't want anyone to climb on them. I spoke to her and she explained where the land boundary is - which is very poorly marked by the remnants of dry stone wall. I told her I was happy to climb wherever she was happy with and I would go over to Baldstones if it was a problem. I think even if it is private land, there is access for climbers to the boulders but I think its best not to frustrate anyone in the current situation and make any access situation worse. If she speaks to you, be nice to her regardless of what happens to not make the future situation sour. Do remember not to cut through her land from Charlie's Overhang directly back to the entrance, go back past Ripple and down.
harrison - 13/Jul/20
I am only moderating this crag because It is a sin not too.... If you are more local than me please let me know and i will pass them over.... Pete J
peteJ23 - 02/Dec/10
watch charlies overhang, nicely dislocated my ankle jumping off it on sunday...
Will_he_fall - 30/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

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