At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though. Read more
Altitude 71m a.s.l
Lowering off Leaning Jowler (F6b)Notice Board Crag. Take care here as you only just access the ledges edge. © rockcat
This crag was said to be used to hang criminals on the top of as an example for all to see. Luckily this isn't done much these days and the top off the crag is now just a popular spot to watch the traffic (jams) on the A55. The routes themselves are on perfect solid rhyolite with plenty of positive holds and amazing pockets. "Fiendish Beandish" can possibly claim to be the best bolted route on mountain rhyolite in North Wales!
The 2 sport routes "Leaning Jowler" and "Fiendish Beandish" were fully re-bolted by Ryan McConnell in 2010. He also installed lower-offs and on the belay ledge, a cable handrail along with extra bolts. The route "Born Again" was bolted by Joe Bertalot to produce a superb sport route.
Come off the A55 at J17. Head towards Conwy Mountain and after crossing over the the A55 and the railway bridges immediately turn right and park 100m down the road. Double back, cross over a stile and take a path up towards the crag. Either reach it from below via a dodgy scramble or better go over the top and drop down left to a rocky notch to find a rope handrail and then a steel cable on the wide grassy ledge wide ledge.
|I put some old rope on the approach after seeing someone slip on the greasy rock step and nearly fall down the grass gully. Feel free to tidy it up as necessary. Would be good to replace it with steel cable at some point, although it might give the impression that it's 'ok' for kids to start scrambling around and get climbers in trouble.|
Dan Hale - 09/Sep/12
|A great piece of rock. Far better in reality than the grimy looking picture in the guidebook suggests. Also, provided you bring a beer towel or similar to dry the uppermost jugs, the crag is permanently dry.|
Dan Hale - 17/Aug/12
|just finished re-bolting fiendish beamish, now has two extra bolts and new lower off. leaning jowler is now a full clip up finishing up fiendish and using its lower off. have also installed handrail along windy ledge. ENJOY!|
spidey - 27/Sep/10
|went for a visit yesterday... is pretty cool and feels like ur on a high pitch of a mountain route... problem is the bolts are very poor. we started up leaning jowler and decided that the bolts where too dodgy.|
adam06 - 08/Aug/10
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer michael burrows