UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 137m a.s.l
Faces E

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Impressive tufas with a climber on Scuasassi (7a+) on Nuova Ossessione. © Neil Foster

Crag features

The 'new obsession' is magnificent steep tufa-covered wall of immaculate rock which is named after the passion of its main developer Tommaso Tamagnini. To Tommaso, a single-pitch sport route should be a long endurance test stretching off as far as the eye can see and this is what he has created at Nuova Ossessione.

There are just over 30 routes in total. Many of these are in the higher grades although there is enough in the mid-grades to keep most climbers interested. The wall's location tucked away on the southeast side of Monte Monaco means that it is not as popular as it should be. The lack of traffic means that the walk-in can be tricky, with much of the path becoming overgrown at times.

Approach notes

Head around the headland of Monte Monaco turning south to follow the eastern faces along the SP63. There is a small parking spot on the right-hand side, approximately 2.3km after the junction of 'Strada Comunale Mondello'. The crag is visible high up on the hill.

From the parking, make your way carefully up the left side boundary fence of the adjacent property. Climb the steep wall (derelict house to your left) then trend right round another fallen wall and back left again. Ascend trending left slightly, following cairns, to a large tree. Continue left past the tree, following the trodden path and cairns which can be vague. Eventually navigate left around a pile of rocks and continue up trending leftwards slightly. Follow more cairns up the vague overgrown path. Keep right of the trees then head right to the main climbing area just right of I 2 Storditi which is often easily identifiable by the multitude of chalky holds up the face.

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