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70m, 4 pitches. P1. (20m 5a) Start 5m left of the Tyrolean and climb up and then left along horizontal breaks to reach a small ledge: at low tide, it is possible to avoid this pitch by scrambling around the back of the stack, making the route about HS overall. P2. (20m 4b) climb the steep slab above using the rightwards slanting crack to a bulge, pull over it, move left and ascend to a splendid cave belay. P3. (10m) an exposed traverse right leads past one upwards break to the base of an offwidth crack. P4. (20m 4b) Climb the crack to a large ledge and some huge blocks, then follow the easiest line which trends up and left to the top.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Summer Trip 2014, The Julia Bradbury Collection, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, Ultimate Sea Stack, Pre-MIA Wishlist, EUMC - Must do climbs, Libby Peter's VS Hit List, Epic Rock Europe, World Class Britain & Ireland, Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS, STAUMC Ticklist, CovidDreams, Scottish Multipitch Seacliffs (S - E2), The Big Three

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User Date Notes
Donesy 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The in-situ Tyrolean is now down to the cores cores and probably needs replacing. Unless you plan on swimming over you should bring provisions to set up your own.
 
Show beta
βeta: The in-situ Tyrolean is now down to the cores cores and probably needs replacing. Unless you plan on swimming over you should bring provisions to set up your own.
Jevo 15 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tyrolean update: core exposed and frayed
 
Show beta
βeta: Tyrolean update: core exposed and frayed
Maria (Spanny) Xusa 6 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 50m ropes in one go will not take you to the bottom as someone suggested.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 50m ropes in one go will not take you to the bottom as someone suggested.
Ewanski 8 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 50m half ropes work for the abseil in a oner, just.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 50m half ropes work for the abseil in a oner, just.
JohnBson 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock below P5 belay. Little gear. Left hand side, slanting crack at start of P3 hard to protect, maybe 5a. 60m doubles enough to abseil to base, but beware strong wind may blow you away from halfway ab point. If you must hit this begin your abseil pendulum as you leave the overhanging rock above.
 
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock below P5 belay. Little gear. Left hand side, slanting crack at start of P3 hard to protect, maybe 5a. 60m doubles enough to abseil to base, but beware strong wind may blow you away from halfway ab point. If you must hit this begin your abseil pendulum as you leave the overhanging rock above.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 73
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Black Gold

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Reiff - Roinn a' Mhill)