UKC

70m, 4 pitches. P1. (20m 5a) Start 5m left of the Tyrolean and climb up and then left along horizontal breaks to reach a small ledge: at low tide, it is possible to avoid this pitch by scrambling around the back of the stack, making the route about HS overall. P2. (20m 4b) climb the steep slab above using the rightwards slanting crack to a bulge, pull over it, move left and ascend to a splendid cave belay. P3. (10m) an exposed traverse right leads past one upwards break to the base of an offwidth crack. P4. (20m 4b) Climb the crack to a large ledge and some huge blocks, then follow the easiest line which trends up and left to the top.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , 2013 Scottish Multi Pitch Mission , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Summer Trip 2014 , The Julia Bradbury Collection , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Ultimate Sea Stack , Pre-MIA Wishlist , EUMC - Must do climbs , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , Big Ideas , World Class Britain & Ireland , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , STAUMC Ticklist , Scottish Multipitch Seacliffs (S - E2) , The Big Three , 50 Top Scottish VS's , The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland , Summer 2021 , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , HS-HVS adventures , Barneys Road Trip Ticklist , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Charlotte Whitmore 10 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Descent point is opp large boulder to get to start. P1 is a bit greasy, med/large cams useful. P3&4gear options are not as good as you’d like. Don’t cross tyrolean near high tide as you will get wet as I found out. Tryrolean rope in place on 1st august. Good condition and anchors are secure when used it- thanks to whoever left it as it saved time Used 60m ropes for a single ab. Watch out for wind as it tangled the ropes when pulling them down
Show beta
βeta: Descent point is opp large boulder to get to start. P1 is a bit greasy, med/large cams useful. P3&4gear options are not as good as you’d like. Don’t cross tyrolean near high tide as you will get wet as I found out. Tryrolean rope in place on 1st august. Good condition and anchors are secure when used it- thanks to whoever left it as it saved time Used 60m ropes for a single ab. Watch out for wind as it tangled the ropes when pulling them down
Euan Todd 20 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Tyrolean in situ 18 Jul 2023. Scramble down is quite exposed and slippery in places.
Show beta
βeta: Tyrolean in situ 18 Jul 2023. Scramble down is quite exposed and slippery in places.
lottiespillett 6 Jun Show βeta
βeta: There is nesting birds on the route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is nesting birds on the route
harry_rendell 12 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Used Tyrolean that someone had left. Got wet on the way back since it was high tide and rope stretch of tyrolean meant we dipped below water level. Tricky crux (V-chimney), could do this better on second attempt using footholds on left. Descent to base of stack is tricky, hard to see from the headland but fairly straightforward once you find it. Climbed in 4 pitches.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Used Tyrolean that someone had left. Got wet on the way back since it was high tide and rope stretch of tyrolean meant we dipped below water level. Tricky crux (V-chimney), could do this better on second attempt using footholds on left. Descent to base of stack is tricky, hard to see from the headland but fairly straightforward once you find it. Climbed in 4 pitches.
Ghost 12 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Our 50m ropes didn\'t reach the ground. The abseil is overhanging and you will need to place gear on the way down in order to reach the mid-way rebelay and it\'s rotting pegs. Best to take 60m climbing ropes instead!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Our 50m ropes didn't reach the ground. The abseil is overhanging and you will need to place gear on the way down in order to reach the mid-way rebelay and it's rotting pegs. Best to take 60m climbing ropes instead!
Ian Campbell 27 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil is possible on 50m half ropes with the the stretch, but only just! Tie knots right in the end and watch for the elastic recoil. The approach descent is very exposed and a long line here is reassuring
Show beta
βeta: The abseil is possible on 50m half ropes with the the stretch, but only just! Tie knots right in the end and watch for the elastic recoil. The approach descent is very exposed and a long line here is reassuring
Adamcsyou 6 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this during a break in the weather, happened to be the same day as a group of 5 were doing the same (thanks for the Tyrolean lads). Descent was wet downclimbing, walking poles are no use. First traverse pitch was really wet and felt very insecure, the rest of the climbing was a breeze after it! Stink of piss at the cave belay. Amazing top out!
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this during a break in the weather, happened to be the same day as a group of 5 were doing the same (thanks for the Tyrolean lads). Descent was wet downclimbing, walking poles are no use. First traverse pitch was really wet and felt very insecure, the rest of the climbing was a breeze after it! Stink of piss at the cave belay. Amazing top out!
Donesy 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The in-situ Tyrolean is now down to the cores cores and probably needs replacing. Unless you plan on swimming over you should bring provisions to set up your own.
Show beta
βeta: The in-situ Tyrolean is now down to the cores cores and probably needs replacing. Unless you plan on swimming over you should bring provisions to set up your own.
Jevo 15 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tyrolean update: core exposed and frayed
Show beta
βeta: Tyrolean update: core exposed and frayed
Maria - Spanny 6 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 50m ropes in one go will not take you to the bottom as someone suggested.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 50m ropes in one go will not take you to the bottom as someone suggested.
Ewanski 8 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 50m half ropes work for the abseil in a oner, just.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 50m half ropes work for the abseil in a oner, just.
JohnBson 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock below P5 belay. Little gear. Left hand side, slanting crack at start of P3 hard to protect, maybe 5a. 60m doubles enough to abseil to base, but beware strong wind may blow you away from halfway ab point. If you must hit this begin your abseil pendulum as you leave the overhanging rock above.
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock below P5 belay. Little gear. Left hand side, slanting crack at start of P3 hard to protect, maybe 5a. 60m doubles enough to abseil to base, but beware strong wind may blow you away from halfway ab point. If you must hit this begin your abseil pendulum as you leave the overhanging rock above.

Logged Ascents

915 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Old Man of Stoer

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 564 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 88
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 81
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pooh Corner

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Reiff - An Stiuir)

Loading Notifications...