Altitude 752m a.s.l
Fine slab climbing on Radio Lucien (4+) on Belleric. © Adrian Berry
Orpierre is a convenient and popular destination. With sectors ranging from single pitch to long routes, all well equipped and within walking distance of the campsite, it's no wonder that Orpierre is ever-popular, even if some of the routes are starting to feel more than a little polished. Its location allows climbing on the crags around Buis-les-Baronnies or Céüse to be reached, making it either a good place to base yourself to explore a number of areas, or a place to visit for a day if you fancy a change of scenery. The town has a climbing shop, a mini-market, and plenty of gîtes.
The area is generally cooler than the crags around Buis further west. During warm weather expect to be chasing the shade. Most wait until early afternoon before heading out to the east-facing areas. After rain, much of the area seeps badly, but Le Puy stays wonderfully dry.
The climbing areas are all found a short walk from the town. If you're staying in Orpierre, there's no need to drive anywhere. The crags are very well signposted, and finding them is mostly a matter of starting in the right place and following the signs.
Château (left side) - The best approach is from the upper car park next to the cemetery (there are two cemetery car parks). A path leads off from the corner of the car park, and zig-zags to the left side of Château.
Château (right side) Cascade and Belleric - From the lower of the two car parks next to the cemetery, follow the path next to the river. This path zig-zags its way in the direction of Belleric, eventually splitting with one path leading to the right side of Belleric, and one leading to the left. The left split is also used to gain access to Cascade and the right side of Belleric.
Quiquillon - There are a few options, it can be approached by skirting a path along the base from Belleric, there are a few steep sections with some via ferrata. Alternatively follow a signed path up from Paradis parking area. Finally, it is possible to park at l'Adrech and follow a path from there.
|I found the Rockfax Haute Province guide is often incorrect on grades across the whole crag particularly on the multi pitch climbs, and the route lines on Belleric are wrong compared to what is written on the rock. I found the Orpierre guide book much better in terms of grades, route lines, and crag coverage.
j_duds - 06/Jan/20
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