The crag is on private land and also within the Alyn Valley Woods Site of Special Scientific Interest designated site.
Please dont approach the crag thorugh the Ty Bont Caravan park, only use the public rights of way. It's highly likley that any climbers seen here could be asked to leave by the landowner. If approached by the land owner, please be courteous and follow instructions and report to the BMC. In the meantime the BMC is attempting to secure a negotiated access.
Although there are public rights of way that pass close to the crag, the landowner has written to the climbers involved with re-developing the crag that he doesn't wish to see climbing being "advertised" here, stating that climbing here is "unsafe and on private property".
Start below the left end of the large grass ledge at 6m. Climb a shallow groove and pass left of the grass via the left wall of the continuation groove. Move right at its top using handholds above the overlap. Climb broken ground then press on up walls and shallow grooves. Exit right to stepped ledges. © Rockfax
FA. H.Walmsley, C.Calow 21/May/2019.
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