Climbs from the shothole (lh) and sidepull (rh) off the Lou Ferrino ramp, through the undercuts and into the jug rail.
From here, the original version finished up Beaver Cleaver - this probably warrants 7C+ (Gaz's original sequence, back-handing the undercut was an 8A sequence for sure!)
The optimised sequence (taking crimp with RH and heel-toe clamps to get the undercut) along with the now popular easier finishes of Clever Beaver, Lip Service or Bust Lip bring this down to 7C.
From here, the original version finished up Beaver Cleaver - this probably warrants 7C+ (Gaz's original sequence, back-handing the undercut was an 8A sequence for sure!)
The optimised sequence (taking crimp with RH and heel-toe clamps to get the undercut) along with the now popular easier finishes of Clever Beaver, Lip Service or Bust Lip bring this down to 7C.
Gaz Parry.
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Route of Interest
Nazgul's Traverse
Grade: f7C ***
(Rhiw Goch Boulders)