UKC

Climbs 109
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 216m a.s.l
Faces E

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Jalon Valley © Chris Craggs

Crag features

Peña Roja (also know as Lliber after the local town) is one of the most popular crags in the Xaló Valley. The routes are generally vertical or gently overhanging and some of the rock is quite hard on the fingers. The setting is tranquil and there is a good collection of tough wall-climbs. There are also a few slippery lower-grade routes on the grey slab at the left-hand edge of the cliff, although they are not that good.

The crag is very sheltered and steep enough to stay dry in light rain. The bowl shape of the cliff means that it can be very hot here, although it does go into the shade by mid-afternoon making it ideal for slow-starters on hot days.

Approach notes

The best approach is from Benissa (N332 and/or AP-7 junction 63 depending on whether you are coming from Calp or the motorway). From here take either the CV-745 via Senija, or the CV-750, towards Xaló/Jalon. On entering the town, turn right towards Lliber then right again at a roundabout. Just before entering Lliber, make a sharp left turn down a ramp which leads into the concrete storm drain. Drive down here and park in the almond grove opposite the crag (muddy and slippery after wet weather). On very rare occasions the storm drain on the approach can fill with water, independent of the weather (there is a hydro-electric plant upstream) - keep an eye out since you will struggle to get your car out if this happens (although it is very rare).

At the time of writing, if my counting is correct there are 14 routes on the Alejandria sector. Further right the 3 caves house a whole bunch more routes, most of which don’t appear to be on here.
Emilio Bachini - 20/Dec/19
Left my camera here on 16th December. If anyone spots it could it please be passed onthe orange house.
Dervey - 18/Dec/13
Really delightful quiet crag.
Kafoozalem - 10/Feb/11
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Climbs at this crag

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