UKC

Climbs 2
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 6843m a.s.l
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Night-"life" at basecamp, Moskviva Glacier © MSchobitz

Crag features

Pik Korzhenevskaya is the third highest mountain in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. Having been discovered in 1910, it was not until 1953 that a Russian team made the first ascent via the North Ridge. Today, most routes to the summit have been climbed, including several winter ascents, usually by Russian teams.

Pik Korzhenevskaya is the second most frequented mountain of all 5 "Snow Leopards" (mountains above 7000m located in the former Soviet Union) behind Pik Lenin.

Though often regarded as an easy peak, its altitude, weather and several steep and exposed sections are not to be underestimated.

Basecamp is located by Moskviva Glade, between 4200 and 4400m, and is most easily accessed by helicopter from Djirgital. Alternatively, a rarely completed 10 day trek leads there as well.

Approach notes

Typically, climbers fly to Dushanbe, then drive to Djirgital and fly to Basecamp with a helicopter from there. This basecamp also serves as basecamp for Pik Ismoil Somoni (Pik Communism) and other lower surrounding mountains.

Visas and Permits are required for the country and mountain.

Best time to visit: July/August

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Climbs at this crag

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