Climbs 12
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 310m a.s.l
Faces SW

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On sight ascent pre bolting 1996ish © james mann

Crag features

CHWAREL PONTERWYD is a small and long disused quarry, the dominant feature of which is a slab that offers a number of fully equipped sport climbs up to 18 metres long. The slab dries fairly quickly after wet weather and receives the sun from early afternoon. Some loose rock exists, although this will diminish with greater use.

If top roping from intermediate bolts, don't thread the rope directly through the bolts; always use a screwgate. The eye of one glue-in bolt on 'Milk Race' is already becoming very worn due to such bad practice.

The quarry is not on open access land and there are no public rights of way either leading to, or within, the quarry; access is therefore entirely at the discretion of the landowner. There is no access agreement but, to date, occasional visits by climbers appear to be tolerated. It should be appreciated that this status quo can change at any time and the quarry?s inclusion on this database does not infer that climbers have any right whatsoever to climb on it. If challenged, climbers must take heed of any instructions to leave the area, remain respectful and avoid any confrontation with the landowner, their agent or representative. It goes without saying that climbers must also ensure that they avoid damaging fences, gates or any other structures. A VERY LOW KEY APPROACH, WITH A MAXIMUM OF 4 CLIMBERS AT THE CRAG AT ANY ONE TIME, IS STRONGLY ADVISED.

Failure to abide by this advice may lead to a total loss of access (as has happened for long periods in the past because of inconsiderate behaviour.) Nothing should be done to jeopardise access.

Approach notes

The quarry is an open cast cut in a hillside, about 250 metres north of the A44 (Aberystwyth to Llangurig), 12 miles east of Aberystwyth and a short distance to the west of the village of Ponterwyd. Cars can be parked in the layby at the side of the A44 directly below the quarry. Approach is made via the access track and a short scree slope in less than 10 minutes. All gates must be opened and then securely re-closed; please do not climb over any gates or fences.

It's a shame (stupid really) that the trad lines were not claimed/written up at the time they were climbed as I doubt that they would have been subsequently bolted.
Doug Kerr - 08/Aug/14
I climbed the obvious crack lines in the mid nineties (96?) with Richard Lock thinking that they might be new. Never wrote them up. Think it is stupid to bolt them.
james mann - 11/Jun/14
Thanks Dave. I thought it was probably the Man Who Cried Milk. There were quite a lot of nut scars on it.
goi.ashmore - 01/Apr/14
Three routes were climbed here in 1979. These were quite bold traditional ascents of the bolted lines now named Milk Race and The Man Who Cried Milk, the latter protected by a single poor peg at half height. The remaining route - The Corner - has probably not been re-led in the intervening period.
Dave Williams - 01/Apr/14
Which were the original trad routes? I did think that I saw some nut scars on one of the thin lines of cracks.
goi.ashmore - 31/Mar/14
All FA details of the routes are known; the slab routes were equipped by the first ascentionists. HTH.
Dave Williams - 13/Jan/14
Are the first ascents known or can I shotgun them? Anyone know who bolted the quarry/ named the routes? I like milk too :D
Sol Armer - 13/Jan/14
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