A beautiful day at Porth Ysgo. The Higginson Scar, V4. © Simon Richardson
The most popular and extensive of the gabbro bouldering areas on the stretch of coast beyond Hell's Mouth on the Lleyn Peninsula.
A beautiful secluded venue, with a good spread of problems across the grades. Mostly non-tidal. The sea-washed rock can be smooth and barnacled, but most of the problems are very rough on the skin. Mats are essential, as there are a lot of highball problems and the landings are not good.
To avoid confusion, anonymous problems have been updated to the numbers given in the second edition of North Wales Bouldering (2017).
|This page really needs updating in line with the new guide.. so many ‘area x problem x’ entries that are out of sync now..
mrphilipoldham - 10/Jul/19
|Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel - 25/Jun/11
|Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06