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Climbs 180
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 36m a.s.l
Faces SW

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first ascent, Small Pets Rejoice © nickcanute

Crag features

The rock type is mostly horneblende schist and there is no real soapstone to speak of though some of the mica schists do have a distinctly shiny appearance. The rock quality is generally good and friction excellent over most of the headland.

It is a complex headland of zawns, cliffs, ridges, slabs, pinnacles and many hidden little nooks with a wide range of climbing, mostly on very good rock, with grades ranging from Moderate to E5 (and, for this coast, the obligatory XS) Recent development over the last two years has been extensive and has uncovered a great adventure playgorund for those determined enough to explore. 

Approach notes

From Predannack Wollas Farm, go over the stone stile in the northern corner of the carpark and follow a signposted path, to join the main coastal footpath near the top of The Diamond Wall, approx 200m north.

The 2017 guide is essential to even begin to locate the various walls, zawns and blocks on this complex section of coastline with numerous individual access routes.

Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
In spite of extensive hunting and reference to first ascensionists I have been unable to exactly identify the lines of Compensation, Rothko and Pollock at Predannack Head. This will be noted in the new guide unless I find them in the meantime.
hopede - 13/Jun/15
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Climbs at this crag

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