Taking a logical line, this route exemplifies traditional chimney climbing at its best. The route itself was quite a feat, opened solo by Piaz and it has now become a popular and somewhat polished climb.
Start on a small ledge below a short wall.
1) II, 25m. Climb the ledge easily for a few metres then follow a prominent ledge left for 20m to a good thread.
2) IV-, 30m. Step left then follow a sloping ramp back right to reach a short corner. Climb this then follow easier stepped ground left to a belay on spikes.
3) IV-, 25m. Climb a series of enjoyable flakes to a well-pegged stance at the base of the main corner system.
4) V, 25m. Climb the corner, which is well protected but sustained. Squeeze through the narrower section then exit left below a chockstone to a thread just left of the chimney-gully above.
5) IV-, 35m. Climb a slab on the left side of the gully to a small ledge with a niche, then move back right to a vegetated stance in the narrower part of the chimney gully.
6) IV-, 30m. Keep left, ascending for 10m before making a rising traverse left below an overhang. Climb above this then move easily back right to a stance in the upper chimney gully.
7) IV-, 35m. Climb the chimney for a few metres, exit left then climb direct to a ledge (possible stance). Continue direct up easy ground to a stance in a notch on the small ridge.
8) III, 130m. Continue direct up loose scree in the direction of Rifugio Re Alberto.
9) I, 50m. Follow easier ground up the large upper spur to reach the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Follow corner / chimney system up the East Face of Punta Emma. Difficulties located in second and third pitches.
Giovanni Battista (Tita) Piaz 1900.
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