Altitude 227m a.s.l
Clipping in the Mecca corner. © Jonathan Bean
A 'National crucible' of hard sport climbing. A huge bastion of overhanging rock giving short (10m) crimpy desperates and multi-pitch pumps over 50m long. Mostly good rock, a bit flaky in places, and polished in others. Top routes are Sardine (7b+), Indecent Exposure (pitch 1, 7b+), The Body Machine (7c), Chimes of Freedom (8a+), Mecca (8b+), Hubble (8c+) and the hardest route in the Peak, Mutation (9a). Not surprisingly, home of hard bouldering too. Powerband and Ben's Roof to name a few. A suntrap - can be too hot!
From the B6049 Tideswell to Buxton road turn left at Miller's Dale (to Litton Mill). Limited parking is available in small laybys below the crag or at the southern end of Tideswell Dale 8 min walk away.
Van camping and biving at the crag is strongly discouraged - it is very noticable and likely to cause friction with local residents, the National Trust (landowners) and fisherman who share use of the area. For the sake of maintaining good relationships with these groups and ensuring continued access, please do not park up or bivi overnight here.
Toileting at the crag also has the potential to generate access problems if climbers don't ensure we minimise our impact. If you are caught short, don't head off into the bushes. Instead make the very short trip to Millers Dale where public toilets are available. If you can't wait that long, carry a 'wag bag' with you and pack out all human waste and toilet paper.This iconic crag and it's surroundings deserves better than to serve as an open air toilet when much more reasonable options are available.